Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Here is an interesting one. I had the original spec wheels 225/45/18 & 245/45/18 on the before I upgraded them to a 19inch set-up (245/35/19 & 275/35/19). Recently I got a small cosmetic bend on the outer lip of the 19s and decided to put back my stock wheels.

Stock wheels go back on, and the traction control doesn't let the car accelerate and the SLIP light comes on. Car wont go more then 60-ish no matter how much the throttle is pressed. If I turn the traction control OFF, it is OK but I wasn't totally satisfied and went back to the 19s.

Any ideas on why this is happening and how to rectify it?

p.s. I had no issues when going to the 19inch wheels.

are you sure you put the 245s on the rear and not the front?

I swapped my wheels front/back to check if there were any clearance problems with 245 tyres on the front of my sedan and the VDC went nuts.

How long did you drive around with them on for? A couple of times what I have changed tyres size/profile dramatically and the it takes the VDC system 20 mins or so to learn, then it just turns the lights off and is all ok again.

are you sure you put the 245s on the rear and not the front?

I swapped my wheels front/back to check if there were any clearance problems with 245 tyres on the front of my sedan and the VDC went nuts.

Yeh I thought about that but I'm 100% sure they were on the correct ends.

How long did you drive around with them on for? A couple of times what I have changed tyres size/profile dramatically and the it takes the VDC system 20 mins or so to learn, then it just turns the lights off and is all ok again.

Actually not long at all, maybe only 2-3 mins then back into the shop to get them changed back. How did you drive 20mins? It hardly let me accelerate?.....It seemed ok when I turned it off (VDC).

How long did you drive around with them on for? A couple of times what I have changed tyres size/profile dramatically and the it takes the VDC system 20 mins or so to learn, then it just turns the lights off and is all ok again.

Yeah I heard something like that.

Yeah and a fewpeople have a problem when putting the car on the dino and it take a while for the car to set itself right again. Holding the VDC down for 10 sec might help.

Hi guys,

Here is an interesting one. I had the original spec wheels 225/45/18 & 245/45/18 on the before I upgraded them to a 19inch set-up (245/35/19 & 275/35/19). Recently I got a small cosmetic bend on the outer lip of the 19s and decided to put back my stock wheels.

Stock wheels go back on, and the traction control doesn't let the car accelerate and the SLIP light comes on. Car wont go more then 60-ish no matter how much the throttle is pressed. If I turn the traction control OFF, it is OK but I wasn't totally satisfied and went back to the 19s.

Any ideas on why this is happening and how to rectify it?

p.s. I had no issues when going to the 19inch wheels.

I think I know what the issue is...

You do not have the stock 18" tyre sizes fitted...

Standard 18" tyres are 225/50/18, not 225/45/18 on the front. With both ends being 45 profile on your car, there is a 3% difference between the front and rear wheels rotational speed and I belive that this is enough to trip the traction and stability control systems.

The fix would be to fit the correct 225/50/18 tyres on the front, or do what I did, and fit the same 245/45/18 tyres on the front rims. They do fit fine.

^^ Nah I had vastly different width wheels, tyres and type profile/rolling diameters from the rear for years - like I said previously, all you have to do is drive for 10-20mins or so and let the ECU figure out what is going on, and it all goes back to normal.

I think I know what the issue is...

You do not have the stock 18" tyre sizes fitted...

Standard 18" tyres are 225/50/18, not 225/45/18 on the front. With both ends being 45 profile on your car, there is a 3% difference between the front and rear wheels rotational speed and I belive that this is enough to trip the traction and stability control systems.

The fix would be to fit the correct 225/50/18 tyres on the front, or do what I did, and fit the same 245/45/18 tyres on the front rims. They do fit fine.

The stock sizes are 225/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear. Even the tyre placard on mine shows this.

Same with the 19s. stock sizes are 225/40/19 front and 245/40/19 rear.

They are a staggered setup.. I think the 350Z might be the same??

Edited by sonicii

Ah sorry, my bad, I thought V36...

I guess the V35 has more robust handling of the diffrence in the wheel speed front to rear... I have seen this issue before with the V36s and it was the difference in tyre size that screwed the VDC system up..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...