Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

i just got my first Skyline, and this is my first post on this site,

big thanks to all you guys, i did alot of reading on this site before i decided to do this build

This is the Car

Its a 1991 R32 Gtr

post-139044-0-42052500-1424225473_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-64085500-1424225483_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-50051500-1424225674_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-27050900-1424225683_thumb.jpg

grabbed it of ebay from a retired policeman in Newcastle

its not running, blown turbos,

we towed it back to Sydney and are now in the process of bringing it back to life

post-139044-0-00769700-1424225678_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453974-r32-build-log-my-first-skyline/
Share on other sites

Now comes the fun part

im keen on a pretty involved rebuild

and i wanted to get some advice

the build list (so far)

rub back and respray $3500

Rb30 Bottom End $500

RB34 Stroker kit (pistons crank and rods) $5600

borg warner efr 9180 Turbo $3700

Brian Crower BC0230 Valve Springs $500

Hks Camshaft 272 10.2 LIFT STEP 2 $1000
Headwork port and polish $1500
GFB Wastegate $700
ebay single turbo exhaust manifold $700
4 inch turbo back exhuast $1800
Haltech plug in ECU and flex module $2500

im still unsure what fuel setup to install

and i know there will be many many many other parts i will need (happy for any advice)

im not chasing any particular power figures

i just want a good strong car that will be "reliable"

any help will be appreciated

Saw this on ebay. Congrats on the purchase. Looks like a good base to start with.

That's a rare colour so I'm told.

"The factory Pearl Blue is a special order on the V-specs (according to an independent site, only around 300 ever made"

Will it be a period correct resto or balls out build? Either way, looking forward to the end product

definitely like the blue paint and would love to keep it,

i just need to track down the colour,

as for the restore or balls to the wall,

im not chasing a actual power figure, but i want to build a very capable street racer,

low lag, lots of power, (essentially the impossible dream)

i rather have 700 HP and less lag instead of 1000 hp and a lag monster

has anyone used this turbo before, ive been told with the 3.4L engine it should be making 20psi by 3000rpm,

and for the manifold, i just checked for a steam pipe one, that looks really good, thanks for the tip

The Borg warners are fantastic from what i have heard. My tuner has been trying to convince me for years.

I would just make sure you do all the reading in and actually decide on a figure you want. Will help with the overall build.

big thanks Anfanee

i honestly did not know what to do with the gearbox, and ive never seen that gearset before

and that set is really good (smooth and quiet) from what im told, i dont like the idea of a "dog box" or a sequential

i want a regular manual car, that i can drive every day if i want to, no crunching and jerking

so with your help i quickly found this link, the guy from just jap says the gears will hold 800hp ish

http://justjap.com/os-giken-cross-gear-set-nissan-bnr32.html

but i need to get a working R33 GTR gearbox to install the parts in , thats where im stuck

i rang around, there are none that i could find 2nd hand

the only other option i have is to get a R34 GTR gearbox and hope it holds,

but im thinking the gearset might be stronger,

anyone have any experience

... $60,000 build. If you think you will finish it for much less than that your kidding yourself.

...20-25k on a 3.4 stroker engine and bolt on's and you're going to cheap out on a manifold and gate?

Set some goals, set out a budget and build something achievable for you.... a 60% car that runs is a lot more fun than a 99% car that's in bits still.

Cheers

J.

By the way you have written your opening posts, your running head first into it (like we all do).... and I have impressed upon you the scope of a build (in dollars, not to mention the time) you are talking about.

What you have said is somewhat contradictory though... why use obviously cheap and inferior parts for a 'reliable' build, why go a full tilt 3.4lt build for a 'strong car' ... why choose a 1000hp capable turbo that IS going to be laggy- when you're stating '700hp and less lag'?

... so I get to my last comment. Have a little think about what you want out of the car, do the research and choose components based on what you out of your car (as best as you can afford) within reason.

Gearbox... again comes down to what your actual goals are, what you intend to use the car for and what your budget is.

If you want a fast, reliable, easy street car that is very capable on the track... look at an r34 GTR conversion with the stock r32 GTR gearing. If you want to drag race, throw a 2 speed power glide in it.

I do like the colour... have fun with it, because building a GTR is a rewarding experience.

Cheers

J.

  • 2 weeks later...

Now comes the fun part

im keen on a pretty involved rebuild

and i wanted to get some advice

the build list (so far)

rub back and respray $3500

Rb30 Bottom End $500

RB34 Stroker kit (pistons crank and rods) $5600

borg warner efr 9180 Turbo $3700

Brian Crower BC0230 Valve Springs $500

Hks Camshaft 272 10.2 LIFT STEP 2 $1000
Headwork port and polish $1500
GFB Wastegate $700
ebay single turbo exhaust manifold $700
4 inch turbo back exhuast $1800
Haltech plug in ECU and flex module $2500

im still unsure what fuel setup to install

and i know there will be many many many other parts i will need (happy for any advice)

im not chasing any particular power figures

i just want a good strong car that will be "reliable"

any help will be appreciated

That's $22,000 plus the price of the car............

I hope you have more success than I do.

I always do my arse on these type of builds.

I genuinely wish you good luck.

Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...