Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am sorting out a 12 sec R33 gtst setup. I am running a GCG stage 1 highflow @16-18psi, power fc etc,etc. My question is how many people have tried aftermarket cams, such as HKS or Tomei and the like. What sort of perfromance gains did they net?? and are they believed to be necessary running the above boost?? What setups are people usung to put down consistant 12 sec 1/4 miles.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45409-12-sec-14s-and-aftermarket-cams/
Share on other sites

I'm guessing sydneykid is gonna jump in cause he has had previous experience with the GCG highflow and I believe he has a r34 with the same highflow running 11.7 on street legal tyres.

PS I dont think the cams are necessary but we'll wait for someone with better knowledge to jump in.

I'm dying to see what SK has to say here, as I want my R34 to go 11.7 on street tyres....

With cams.

A question.

Would there be a lot of gain from using Tomei Poncams on standard turbo.... OR should I up the turbo first?

If you're running those mods you should NOT need to change cams at all to achieve your goal. It will obviously help though.

What setups are people usung to put down consistant 12 sec 1/4 miles.

Good tyres. Seriously.

Adrian

My old gtst had a HKS 264/ 9mm lift exhaust cam added at the time of a stock spec rebuild. Running the factory turbo and intercooler.

The gains occured right through the power band to the tune of about 20hp. The midrange is very healthy.

You have a larger turbo and stand to gain an even better average power improvement. Like some have said it might not be required to get a 12 but, to get there easy a set of cams is the go.

If it loses traction just throw more power at it, eventually you will get there :D

you should need cams at all.

i ran 12.9 with 225 tyres... and about 200rwkw.

stock head etc, mild tune ECU

with a GCG hi-flow you'd be over my old power for sure.

Tyres are your answer here as others have said

rev210: So you used the standard inlet cam , with the hks exhaust? did you have to get cam gears and adjust timming? interesting tell me more. After the cost of cam gears if used wouldnt there be more point in getting a set of tomie pon cams that work with the factory gears.

Does anyone know the lift of the 256 tomie pon set?

Yeah, what Adrian said. It's easier to measure the gain (if any) of a mod if they are done one at a time, if the cams don't do anything for you (I personally don't think you need them for mid/low 12's) rip 'em out and sell them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...