Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Manual Conversion, What 33 Bits Can I Use?

BurnzGTT
 Share

Recommended Posts

BurnzGTT Enthusiast

BurnzGTT

Posted
Posted

As the title states, looking to convert my GTT to manual. I have access to a manual 33 to pillage some bits and pieces from. What from the 33 can i use? im assuming i can use the box, but will need a 33 clutch as i have been told they're different. Any advice is greatly appreciated. :)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I assume that the clutch pedal box is the same, seeing as most other parts of 33s and 34s are (mechanically) the same.

You are correct about needing to use the clutch from the R33. R33s are conventional push clutch actuation. 34s are pull. So you will need all the clutch stuff from the 33.

Don't worry about the hardline and damper box between the clutch master and slave. Just buy a braided teflon hose for it outright.

The main pain though is in the wiring. You need to get the engine bay side wiring loom from the manual car. I have no idea if this is the same or even particularly compatible between 33s and 34s. There are many wiring differences between them, so it is fair to assume that the looms don't swap cleanly. Best you try to find one from a 34. It is FAR FAR easier to put in the whole loom section than trying to stitch in all the bits that are different.

BurnzGTT Enthusiast

BurnzGTT

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Damn. I was told it was relatively simple, which is a shame, because i could get the 33 parts cheap. But by the sound of it, im better off just sourcing all 34 gear, including the box. Thanks for the advice mate.

Edited by BurnzGTT
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

You have read through all 9 pages of this, yes? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/139916-diy-r34-manual-conversion-using-r33-parts/

From my understanding most parts are fairly interchangeable but the wiring is a headache. I was chasing a manual 34 loom for a while with no luck, ended up getting the shop to splice and rework my auto loom, not fun.

Also I'll save someone else saying this - if your car is fairly stock have you considered selling it and buying a manual? This can work out cheaper than a manual conversion...

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...