Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i melted a huge hole in my aircon hose under the hood when i had my screamer pipe on and i didnt realise for quite a while, i knew it stopped blowing cold air but i still used it to just blow air a few times and the heater still works fine so i had run that quite a bit with this big hole melted through the silver insulated aircon hose. Anyways i have got a new hose to put on it and i will then get it filled back up with has cos obviously its empty but im worried about all the crap that would have got inside that big hole, everytime it has been turned on would it have sucked and blown all that crap inside it all? and if so what would i need to clean exactly?

would it have gotten into the aluminum canister or into the unit in the dash, the aircon is totaly empty so i can safely open stuff up but in not sure where i would need to clean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454663-aircon-cleaning/
Share on other sites

If the air con has no gas in it it doesn't actually turn on the compressor, so it wouldn't have pumped stuff through.

Stuff would have just got in on its own free will, probably wouldn't have got out of the hose into other bit. See what the air con guy says.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454663-aircon-cleaning/#findComment-7494926
Share on other sites

If you are truly worried they can do a flush. As Ben said, the A/C compressor has a trinary switch that turns it off above a certain pressure and below a certain pressure. As soon as the hose started leaking the compressor would have cut out and never started again. Air con systems need to be clean, but I dont expect too much would have got into the system (bar the melted pipe which has been replaced anyway)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454663-aircon-cleaning/#findComment-7494951
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...