Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just buy NGK copper plugs from your local auto store/s. Depending on boost levels you may want to run 6 or 7 for your heat range. Usually the plugs come 1.1mm gap, simply gap them down to 0.8mm and put them in.

May as well check your coil packs and ignition leads at the same time to prevent issues during tuning or down the track.

I can tell you right now that you should definitely be pulling more power closer to 300kw if you are using factory injectors/pump (at their limits). Running the 9's at low boost you'll get increased lag, assuming you are chasing response you might want to consider your fuel system options to prevent that. Obviously factory clutch might become an issue possibly unless you put a better one in with the motor out and other issues arise.

Final question, what made you rebuild your rb26 with standard components and not aim for stronger internals or head work?

Cheers for the reply. I was in a bit of a rush with the initial post as the donk is not completely standard. to be honest 300 is the aim I was just being conservative.

it has Forged pistons, upgraded rods, oil restrictor, sump baffle, tomei metal gaskets. its not over the top but should do 300awkw pretty easliy. My goal with the -9's is to run about 20/21 psi as the haltech will do that by default

The clutch has also been sorted. its new and not stock.

Sounds good and perfect for 300kw, nice figure and I am aiming for around 330kw at 20/21psi with my setup once complete. I am also using hks gt-ss's which are -9 equivalent.

But yeah make sure the fuel system and ignition is sorted correctly and you should get good results with the setup you have.

Stock camshafts will still be good but if you put in adjustable cam gears you might of done some camshafts at the same time to give you that increase.

With regards to plugs, there are two types you might need to try to find what works best for you. Consult your engine builder/tuner to see what he might suggest but it is a matter of trial and error really. But if you have new ignition components then you probably won't see any issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...