Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just buy NGK copper plugs from your local auto store/s. Depending on boost levels you may want to run 6 or 7 for your heat range. Usually the plugs come 1.1mm gap, simply gap them down to 0.8mm and put them in.

May as well check your coil packs and ignition leads at the same time to prevent issues during tuning or down the track.

I can tell you right now that you should definitely be pulling more power closer to 300kw if you are using factory injectors/pump (at their limits). Running the 9's at low boost you'll get increased lag, assuming you are chasing response you might want to consider your fuel system options to prevent that. Obviously factory clutch might become an issue possibly unless you put a better one in with the motor out and other issues arise.

Final question, what made you rebuild your rb26 with standard components and not aim for stronger internals or head work?

Cheers for the reply. I was in a bit of a rush with the initial post as the donk is not completely standard. to be honest 300 is the aim I was just being conservative.

it has Forged pistons, upgraded rods, oil restrictor, sump baffle, tomei metal gaskets. its not over the top but should do 300awkw pretty easliy. My goal with the -9's is to run about 20/21 psi as the haltech will do that by default

The clutch has also been sorted. its new and not stock.

Sounds good and perfect for 300kw, nice figure and I am aiming for around 330kw at 20/21psi with my setup once complete. I am also using hks gt-ss's which are -9 equivalent.

But yeah make sure the fuel system and ignition is sorted correctly and you should get good results with the setup you have.

Stock camshafts will still be good but if you put in adjustable cam gears you might of done some camshafts at the same time to give you that increase.

With regards to plugs, there are two types you might need to try to find what works best for you. Consult your engine builder/tuner to see what he might suggest but it is a matter of trial and error really. But if you have new ignition components then you probably won't see any issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...