Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Recently bought an aussy 1987 r31. Have been loving it but have encouted a problem just recently. The car was running awesome until a gerni'ed and degreased the engine bay. Ever since the engine (stock rb30) has been idling pretty rough, revs high and then goes to normal idle. Also shakes the whole car off and on during idle. Also during acceleration the engine stutters but very quickly. Also pulling up to lights the car also shtutters but much more violently.

Have assumed that I have got water somewhere such as in a sensor, coil pack, spark plug whels, or even in the distributer. Therefore I left the car for a couple of days to dry, but it's still doing the same thing. Have now got some water despersent spray and gave all the spark plug lead caps and distributer lead caps a good spray and checked the spark plug whels for moisture but nothing.

From there I checked the resistance of the coil pack and is within limits so I have run out of ideas and not sure what to do next.

Any help would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Riley

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455457-rb30-stuttering-engine-problem/
Share on other sites

i had a similar issue which was my leads which looked perfect, were arking on the rocker cover due to tiny cracks and general insulation break down, the degreaser could have just failed the rubber?
have you tried NEW leads and NEW plugs?

These old jiggers have an ignition module on the front of the distributor and a CAS somewhere inside.

Might be worth pulling it apart, giving it a good dry out plus WD40.

Check the carbon brush down the centre electrode of the distributor cap too. When they wear the spark is erratic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...