Jump to content
SAU Community

Starter Motor Or Flywheel Issue?

tyr32

By tyr32,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

tyr32 Apprentice

tyr32

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

So Iv just had my starter motor reconditioned with brushes and bushes an since Iv put it back in Iv been having problems. When I go to start the car it sometimes sounds like it's jamming or just spinning... Iv taken it back out an have had a look, both the Starter motor an flywheel teeth seem to be fine just a few little chips from the issue I'm having.

I have put a new battery with a lot more cranking amps as my older battery, could that be part of the issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456190-starter-motor-or-flywheel-issue/
Share on other sites
tyr32 Apprentice

tyr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still having trouble with it :( need some help again.

When the starter motor is out it works fine, throws out an spins like it should, but when I hook it back up it sounds like it's spinning an not catching the flywheel... But after having a few go's at trying to start it, it does connect some times an I am able to start the car, never done this before I took it out the first time so it woulndt be the flywheel right?

Please help I'm so stumped on this :/

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Did you return it to the workshop?

A bit of info to help diagnose.

When you hit the start position, the first thing that happens is the solenoid pulls the Bendix into mesh with the flywheel.

As the solenoid reaches the end of it's travel, it bridges the high amp switch contacts which supply power to the actual starter motor, and away she goes.

So if it motors but doesn't engage, you could have a busted Bendix or the solenoid lever may have been assembled incorrectly, (easy mistake to do) and then the engagement to the flywheel is incorrect.

This is why it's best for a competent shop to mount, test and measure the Bendix throw etc.

As an aside, the high amp contacts down at the bottom of the solenoid are often a forgotten item when a starter is "overhauled".

If the starter has been run with a dead/dying battery for a while, the contacts melt.

macautomotive Enthusiast

macautomotive

Posted
Posted

2 things, 1 double check the entire ring gear for worn teeth, its possible that if the engine comes to rest in the same position as where the worn teeth on the flywheel line up with the starter motor it won't mesh, 2 the starter motor may throw out the drive gear but will it take a load at the same time? It's possible the one way bearing is stuffed hence it will work fine on the bench but not when it's in the car. Something as important as a stater motor you have already wasted time and effort with trying to save money having it repaired just do it right and replace with new. Hope this helps

  • 1 year later...
msammut Contributor

msammut

Posted
Posted

The solenoid on top of the starter normally comes with a set of spacer rings. These rings detemine how far the solenoid throws out the starter pinion which in turn determines whether the starter pinion engages fully or partially. i would suggest that the people who reco'ed your starter may need to add or remove the spacers.

When I bought a new solenoid for another nissan i was given 3 spacers.

Michael.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...