Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

my car could run 330-350kms and 1/4 tank left on fuel gauge, and it needs about 45L to fill full. so it is about 13L/100km, it seems ok.

I know NM35 feul tank is 80L. my question is why i used 45L but the fuel gauge shows only 1/4 tank left? is there any problem with it?

btw, i never try to drive until empty light on. maybe i need to run once until empty light on?

Edited by YangLIU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456433-fuel-gauge-problem/
Share on other sites

Depends on a few things. The fuel level sensors that reside in each side of the tank could need a clean, they build up a varnish from the fuel.

The fuel sometimes sloshes over to the other side of the tank, and the computer that works out the level from the twin sensors is a little stupid I think. Eventually the two sides level out and the gauge should read higher again.

Depends on a few things. The fuel level sensors that reside in each side of the tank could need a clean, they build up a varnish from the fuel.

The fuel sometimes sloshes over to the other side of the tank, and the computer that works out the level from the twin sensors is a little stupid I think. Eventually the two sides level out and the gauge should read higher again.

most time when i park the car for long time then start it, i found the fuel gauge is obviously then last time before turn off engine.

maybe i need to clean fuel level sensor?

btw, could you advise which type of fuel filter and fuel pump are suitable for NM35? it is a good chance for changing the fuel filter/pump with cleaning fuel level sensors together.

Edited by YangLIU

Any aftermarket pump will require the wiring be upgraded. I have 255's in stock if you need one for $110.

The filter and 2 x Oring part numbers will be in the M35 parts thread.

Clean the carbon on the sensors with contact cleaner, ethanol or metho.

Any aftermarket pump will require the wiring be upgraded. I have 255's in stock if you need one for $110.

The filter and 2 x Oring part numbers will be in the M35 parts thread.

Clean the carbon on the sensors with contact cleaner, ethanol or metho.

cool! i will arrange that when next service. also will contact you to buy the pump. thanks mate.

No idea, I haven't had the enthusiasm to check it more closely, could be a dirty sensor as mentioned. The car's been acting as a tool shed for the past few weeks so I've only just got it moving again (and took it for a 300km trip to celebrate). All I know is it operates as expected above 1/4 tank, then once it drops below 1/4 sometimes it'll bounce back up to just below 1/2. Shut it down and restart and it's back to normal.

  • 10 months later...

Sorry to resurrect this thread. So just bought my M35 VQ35 Stagea recently and wanted thoughts as to whether the sender is the issue or the gauge.

Bought car and at the time, fuel gauage read 1/2 tank and didn't move much from 1/2 tank after about 100kms of driving

Parked the car for couple of hours, came back and car was hard to start but i didn't think much of it when it did start.

Car then reads 1/4 tank. Drove for about 6kms and car died. Ran to the closest servo and filled up with 5L jerry can, car now reads 1/2 tank again and looking at the estimate kms to empty it reads 188kms!!

Filled it up again at servo and filled up another 73litres and car now is reading full...

Hard to work it out I guess but thoughts?

Edited by privatepang

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are black hose clamps as well if you care. Plazmaman for example sells some: https://plazmaman.com/product/black-hose-clamps-premium-quality-stainless-breeze/
    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
×
×
  • Create New...