Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

recently i got a HKS OBD2 tool. these day I found the water temp is getting to 99-101 degree when stop and wait traffic light or heavy traffic. (but when driving, the water temp is 87-90 degree based on the environment temperature. actually the environment temp is around 22-25 degree these day in Sydney and it is not hot)

is it normal temp when idle? the stock water gauge is in normal status but you know the stock gauge is lazy unless the water is really really hot.

Edited by YangLIU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/
Share on other sites

There is a few good mods to drop those Temps and keep them more stable. Scottys cooling mod will help with stability, there are thicker core radiator options. And the nismo thermostat. Grab all those and it should drop into the 80s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530744
Share on other sites

There is a few good mods to drop those Temps and keep them more stable. Scottys cooling mod will help with stability, there are thicker core radiator options. And the nismo thermostat. Grab all those and it should drop into the 80s

i have alloy radiator and i think that's enough for daily drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530793
Share on other sites

IF and I mean IF you can find one get a copper core radiator, that is likely to be a big ask because they are expensive but much more durable that alloy as thermal cycling will eventually crack an alloy radiator.
Copper tends to handle the flex much better. Modern radiators with their folded clip tanks and "O" rings are cheap to produce and replace but the do have a finite life especially with the FRP used in the moulded tanks and other components.

As for the running temp the higher and more stable you can keep it the better, ie if it runs at 95 C that's fine if it stays 5 deg either side of that, but radical excursions above and below create a lot of thermal stress.
remember a 15 Lb cap for instance will raise the boiling point to roughly 120 C depending on the actual coolant you are using so if your engine is reporting 99-101 once hot that is likely about mid gauge scale.

I know racing is just a little different to street but the hotter the better without boiling is considered by many as the norm 30 psi in a race system isn't uncommon so engine temps can be much higher and the expansion difference lower at high temps thus closer tolerances can be used to produce more power.

Edited by MozzMann
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530807
Share on other sites

" Ben" Again people DON'T read the expansion I am referring to as different rates are between the various dissimilar metals used in modern engines, even alloys of the same metal. Hence the hotter the better to a point as a design feature because that is how the motor has been designed, taking into account the expansion when heated so that at Operation temperature the tolerances tighten up and then change little as the internal temperature changes within the engine.

Take the average Alloy or part alloy engine these days, there are Chrome-Molybdenum springs used extensively along with thin hardened shims they sit on, sintered boron bronze alloy valve guides, or hardened steel chrome plated valve buckets and their valve clearance shims, Titanium or harden alloy retainer's are now common to reduce reciprocating weight in the valve train, Stainless or more common cast camshafts, billet steel or cast or even Steel alloy crankshafts, forged steel con rods, chromium or hardened steel alloy sleeves in an Aluminium alloy block they ALL expand and contract differently and why as has been stated the hotter the better up to a point and the design parameter's of the engine take into account the differing expansion rates so that when the engine is at Optimal operating temperature the internal tolerances are within design specifications and will go a long way to explaining why some motors chatter or make a bit of noise when cold but hum smoothly when at temperature.


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530918
Share on other sites

Why us hotter better though?

The expansion rates of different metals is linear. They don't expand more from 0 to 40 than compared to 100 to 140.

They don't become similar at a certain range. The expansion rates that is.

I'm confused.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530925
Share on other sites

...when the engine is at Optimal operating temperature the internal tolerances are within design specifications...

yes, and optimal operating temperature has recommended minimum and maximum temperatures.

might as well remove the entire cooling system due to "the hotter the better" theory and see how that works out for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530944
Share on other sites

Ben & Pulsar

Again your not reading this as intended.

Different metal expand at different rates now while this is Linear as you correctly point the rate between different alloys IS different , Copper expands and contracts at a significantly different rate to Titanium for the same temperature change for instance and out the result tolerances between components change. What I am trying to convey apparently unsuccessfully is the differences in expansion rates per temperature are taked into account when an engine is designed so that whet at the correct temp all works as it should BUT if the internals of the engine are too cold it will be as a general rule much less efficient.
As I said expansion rates ARE different between different metal alloys and this is taken into account so that at the nominal operating temperature of the engine all the internal tolerances ie clearances are with the design specifications.
What this means is if your engine is continually operating below the optimal temperature then you will get excess wear between components because the space between them is in excess of the designed parameter's .

Again as a general rule the hotter the better up to a point because the energy release from the fuel has a higher calorific value (read energy release ) at a higher temperature.

It's a bit hard to understand with modern injection system as they allow for temperature changes in the Engine Block, Air inlet charge and other factors, When older engines used a choke on a Carburettor to richen the mixture at cold temps but you get rid of this as the motor warmed up and got more efficient running with a leaner mixture.
The modern injected engine is in essence no different in operation but used sophisticated electronics to manage everything from Ignition and cam timing to fuel delivery and drive train management so we are not aware of the inefficiencies at low temps .

This however still does not detract from the statement " Hotter the Better " was referring directly to racing ( I was referring to racing here ) as the internal efficiency of the engine is significantly better at higher Temps . 95-105 for instance than it is at 75-85 and the sole reason why there is a thermostat in your cooling system to get the engine up to and keep it within it's designed operating range. . Now you can see what I mean I hope.

Side note the reason why you NEVER remove the radiator cap from an over heated engine is the sudden drop in working pressure will instantly boil the coolant potentially severely scalding you.

Edited by MozzMann
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7530959
Share on other sites

It is pointless trying to explain when people simply do not read, There are operating criteria for specific engines as I have stated all along,

the higher the engine can operate within those criteria the more efficient it will be and depending on the design.

NASCAR and often in a multicar train running generally full tilt and NOT in clean air so boom goes your argument there and why they try to keep temps down as this allows a much wider temp range before problems occur. but hey have a real juggling act between covering the radiator opening to get speed or opening it up to run cooler.

As fo F1 and Indy they have no fans and as a result must build a buffer into the car where the air flow does the cooling but they don't overheat while in the pit (minimal coolant too as they want to reduce weight.)

V8 Series, depending on the engine builder might have a design temp anywhere from 80 to 120 deg and again often not in clean air so it is desirable to keep initial temps low to again have a buffer temp wise while in racing in nose to tail areas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456464-idle-water-temp/#findComment-7531034
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...