Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

right perchased my stagea 2 weeks ago converted to manual last week upon taking it out on a test drive ran like crap idle wasbad from when i got it sometimes hunts or dies when coming to a stop i realize that that could be aac but i thought i had better check whats going on so installed wide band calibrated it at idle its at 17 then go for a gentle short drive stays about 17 not going into boost because of this.... plus no power really at all...

when driving back when it was auto noticed a strange flatspot where you would let of a tad then go back on it would jerk

checked for dry solder in the maf (pink e60) nothing completely fine no boost leaks before the turbo has a hybrid turbo good for around 550bhp 550 side feed injectors 1.6mm hks head gasket mines ecu. also fitted nkg spark plugs at standard gap i know this can be a problem on some turbo applications but surely not going to cause lean conditions ?

im a novice with Nissans any help would be fantastic thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456509-my-stagea-issues/
Share on other sites

You can't check for dry solder joints without a microscope, did you simply resolder the pins?

Sounds like you may need a tune, the Mines could be setup for any mods...

not soldered yet but will do. also yes i know thinking of going fully aftermarket but if i do will i run into complications with attesa system ?

Edited by centoproject

No, why would you? There are literally hundreds of tuned Stagea's getting about, why would you think they are all in RWD?

I think you should do some in depth reading, search for similar issues, speak to a few tuners locally and come to your own conclusions as to what will work best. Now you have gone manual perhaps a Standalone ecu is your best bet, but you have so many options with the RB25

No, why would you? There are literally hundreds of tuned Stagea's getting about, why would you think they are all in RWD?

I think you should do some in depth reading, search for similar issues, speak to a few tuners locally and come to your own conclusions as to what will work best. Now you have gone manual perhaps a Standalone ecu is your best bet, but you have so many options with the RB25

oh i see well i have done quite a lot of research but they all could be the problem so i will go at one at a time my main question was what are the main components that fail as a hole as apposed to someones idle being iffy mine seams to have quite a few issues ?

Because your ECU has someone else's tune on it no doubt. The more you mod it, the worse it will get.

hmm the ecu was installed by a tuner over here in England along with a load of other stuff (supporting mods) im trying to track down the original uk owner for more info but he spent a hell of a lot on this paperwork says that it had nistune installed but had a look yesterday and mines ecu with the gold plate

also whats the best ecu that can fit in the stagea without cutting looms ect plug and play i know a lot wont fit only mines and nistune

Most ecu will need a little bit of rewiring but best one to get in the UK for a manual Stagea is a link G4. You can also get rid of the maf while your at it. Have a G4 myself and can't fault it.

I'm sure once you have an ecu with a proper tune you will have no more problems!

The attesa connects to the ECU via 3 wires:

ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description

Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal

Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS

Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground

Thankfully the unit can be used quite independently. If you feed it a pull-to-ground tach signal, it should function without throwing an error code and turning off the 4WD.

If you are delving into different ECUs, the voltage drop associated with sensors like the TPS will influence what the 4WD thinks your actual throttle amount is. If you have some skill in electronics, you should be able create your own circuit to bend the TPS as you wish.

If not, you should probably learn.....the S1 can be a headache to tune.

The attesa connects to the ECU via 3 wires:

ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description

Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal

Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS

Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground

Thankfully the unit can be used quite independently. If you feed it a pull-to-ground tach signal, it should function without throwing an error code and turning off the 4WD.

If you are delving into different ECUs, the voltage drop associated with sensors like the TPS will influence what the 4WD thinks your actual throttle amount is. If you have some skill in electronics, you should be able create your own circuit to bend the TPS as you wish.

If not, you should probably learn.....the S1 can be a headache to tune.

thanks fellas yes the s1 seams to be nightmare at the moment aftermarket should solve my problems no end as for tps related things i have done a search but no luck on the voltage adjustment of the actual tps i have seen people mention this ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...