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It’s time for me to sell my beloved GTR as I’m getting a deposit together for a house. I’ve spent over $25,000 on parts, you’ll be hard pressed to find a cleaner 33 GTR.

Car was tuned by JEM and made 297kw on BP 98.

Price is 28,000 ONO – Sorry not interested in swaps or trades

Car is located in Canberra

I will be putting photos up over the weekend

Any queries you can contact me on 0 Four 23492200

Specs are as follows, chances are that I've missed things:

Engine – Rebuilt November 2012 – Can provide majority of receipts

Engine block was completely machined (decked, acid dipped and welsh plugs were replaced, crank balanced, bores honed, oil galleries drilled out, x-rayed for cracks ect)
New CP forged pistons with 9:1 compression
I-beam Forged Rods
N1 Oil Pump with Reimax billet oil pump gear
Trust Oil Sump Baffle with extended oil pickup
New Alternator
All seals and gaskets were replaced with OEM items, with the exception of a cosmetic metal head gasket.
All new OEM heater hoses – Over $700 worth of hoses
New Clutch Fan
ATI 1000HP Harmonic Balancer
Greedy 19-Row Oil Cooler with Thermostat and Oil filter relocation kit
New oil pressure sender unit

Head has been serviced, with new OEM camshafts installed

Nismo Engine and Gearbox mounts

New Thermostat

Turbo/Exhaust

Garret 2860-7’s with HKS actuators
X-Force Dump Pipes
HKS Front Pipes and CAT
3.5 Inch Custom Exhaust

Driveline

Gearbox was refreshed with new syncros at Award and Diff in Sydney in February 2015 new 4th gear set installed November 2014, serviced with Redline Lightweight Shockproof

Transfer case was inspected by Award and Diff and serviced with new transfer case fluid. ATESSA actuator piston has been modified to allow faster engagement of the front wheels.

V-spec Electronic Diff was serviced with new fluids

Nismo Coppermix Twin-Plate Clutch

Ignition/CPU
Spitfire Coilpacks
New coilpack harness

Apexi Power FC with Hand controller
Greedy Profec B Electronic boost controller with hi/low boost settings

Tarzan G-Box Installed – Replaces stock G-force sensor. (http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/06/the-gt-r-gets-tarzan-ed/)

Viper Alarm system with immobiliser, tilt sensor, glass break sensor and shock sensor

Fuel
Walbro 240 hiflow fuel pump
Flow tested injectors

Suspension/Handling/Braking

Tien Monoflex Coilovers
Nismo ball joints
New tension Rods and Universal links
Cv Joints replaced
Suspension calibrated by Capital Steering and Suspension in Canberra
Michelin Pilot Sport 3 – Installed 10,000kms Ago

Nagisa Auto strut braces – Attach to front quarter panel

New DBA T3 Rotors and Project Mu Pads with DOT 4.1 brake fluid

Interior

Reinforced driver’s seat – Frame was reinforced with thicker cold-rolled steel. In addition the seat and backrest foam was also replaced.

Nismo Centre Gauges
Genuine Nissan Floor mats

Exterior

Series 3 Xenon Headlights
Nismo Clear Front Indicators
Nismo Clear Side Indicators
OEM Series 3 Front Lip with Brake Ducts

Series 3 Bonnet Lip and N1 Vents
Nismo Wing Caps (Carbon)
Nismo Weathershields

Other things

New Battery
Serviced with Motul Fluids ever 5,000kms

I have spare parts including stock edu and Quest LED Tail-lights

Hey mate, did you have the motor built, who was it built by and what boost pressure are you currently running through it ? Also is it still running the standard fuel system i.e injectors, rail, pressure reg etc ? Is it neat in the body, has it ever had a hit, paint etc ?

Bump - For everyone thats been asking, yes, this car will pass rego. New tires, legal height and even legal window tint.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Been watching your car Since you advertised it on Carsales.

Hope you got close to what you were after, one damn nice car.

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    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
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