Jump to content
SAU Community

Options For New Inlet Manifold - 100mm, Retain Itbs

dorifticon
 Share

Recommended Posts

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

True...

Op should run 6 inch piping for efficiency.

Obvious sarcasm aside, there is a point (size) where it won't help anymore.

Put a pressure gauge at the outlet of the turbo and one on the plenum, the differential pressure is the pressure drop through the pipe work. Then do it again with the upgrade.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

So it wouldnt be the intercooler giving the pressure drop at all?

Yes of course.

Put simply, the least number of bends, shortest length and optimized pipe diameter will be best.

If your turbocharger is compressing the air to 30psi (example) you don't want it to be loosing 5-10psi through pipe work to get it into the cylinder head.

Sub Boy32 Rising Star

Sub Boy32

Posted
Posted

Can't help you with the decision of what plenum to run, but when I fitted my RB26/30 with a Greddy plenum I struck the usual/know problem of the clutch master hitting it.

I got a race car CNC guy to whip me up a spacer to allow me to run a S15 turbo, and have sold quite a few of these to forum members, let me know if you want one

ClutchMaster.jpg

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yes of course.

Put simply, the least number of bends, shortest length and optimized pipe diameter will be best.

If your turbocharger is compressing the air to 30psi (example) you don't want it to be loosing 5-10psi through pipe work to get it into the cylinder head.

You seriously think you will lose 10psi through 80mm pipework at this power? No chance.

Some people just want it to look like they have a 2000hp drag car, and this I can totally understand. I just prefer finding out if the stock gear can get the job done before blowing 1000's on overnight parts from Japan, and I am confident it will in this situation.

The same can't be said about exhausts, these need to be as you mentioned, least amount of bends, largest free flowing pipes you can fit. Same with intakes really if you don't have to worry about defects.

  • Like 1
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

You seriously think you will lose 10psi through 80mm pipework at this power? No chance.

Some people just want it to look like they have a 2000hp drag car, and this I can totally understand. I just prefer finding out if the stock gear can get the job done before blowing 1000's on overnight parts from Japan, and I am confident it will in this situation.

The same can't be said about exhausts, these need to be as you mentioned, least amount of bends, largest free flowing pipes you can fit. Same with intakes really if you don't have to worry about defects.

It is just an example, get your mate to put a couple of pressure gauges at the turbo outlet and at the plenum on his 600kW RB with stock pipe work and lets find out :)

Yep, some people like the look, others (like me) would prefer to look for every efficiency they can especially if they are building a turbo system with all custom piping anyway.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Fair enough. I have designed and fabricated pipework on many high horsepower builds, and there are a lot of good reasons to keep the airspeed up. If you want to slow it down as much as possible, who am I to judge.

Just letting OP know the GTR runs one of the best intercooler pipe setups I have seen on a stock car, and it's capable of 600+kw in my opinion, as long as high boost is involved.

As for pressure gauges, it isn't telling you much about the pipework, only how well the intercooler flows and if it's cooling the charge nicely. Pressure readings mean nothing without temperature drop.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Fair enough. I have designed and fabricated pipework on many high horsepower builds, and there are a lot of good reasons to keep the airspeed up. If you want to slow it down as much as possible, who am I to judge.

Just letting OP know the GTR runs one of the best intercooler pipe setups I have seen on a stock car, and it's capable of 600+kw in my opinion, as long as high boost is involved.

As for pressure gauges, it isn't telling you much about the pipework, only how well the intercooler flows and if it's cooling the charge nicely. Pressure readings mean nothing without temperature drop.

I agree it is capable of 600kW of flow... but that's about it from your comments.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...