Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are V36s true dual exhausts? If not these won't fit.

Depends what (if anything) is actually in those resonators. Generally speaking deleting the rear stock exhaust section makes V's sound VERY loud and obnoxious. But for that price and an hours labour it is worth the punt imho (if they actually fit).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457037-370-gt-exhaust/#findComment-7541948
Share on other sites

Are V36s true dual exhausts? If not these won't fit.

Depends what (if anything) is actually in those resonators. Generally speaking deleting the rear stock exhaust section makes V's sound VERY loud and obnoxious. But for that price and an hours labour it is worth the punt imho (if they actually fit).

Yes.. stock is dual exhaust.. I am just worried with the exhaust change will make the sound harsh or have too much of the metallic note/noise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457037-370-gt-exhaust/#findComment-7541959
Share on other sites

I have the same megan racing off ebay a couple years ago. Sounds great but you do get abit metalic noise/raspy when the car is cold. Once the car is warmed up working at its normal temp it's perfect. Also check out invidia or advices from any exhaust shop, you want something that you can live with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457037-370-gt-exhaust/#findComment-7542012
Share on other sites

I have an axle back Fujistubo on mine which came with the car from Japan (I think its a legalis-R but I have not been able to find one sold only as an axle back). The rest of the exhaust is stock. Sound is perfect for my needs, slight bark when car first kicks over when cold, which balances out to a subtle V6 rumble. The rest of the time the exhaust sound is very composed, not too loud and barely noticeable especially cruising at highway speeds. Things start to get a little more aggressive in terms of sound at 4.5k - 5k rpm and above.

Edited by Bliksem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457037-370-gt-exhaust/#findComment-7542057
Share on other sites

I have an axle back Fujistubo on mine which came with the car from Japan (I think its a legalis-R but I have not been able to find one sold only as an axle back). The rest of the exhaust is stock. Sound is perfect for my needs, slight bark when car first kicks over when cold, which balances out to a subtle V6 rumble. The rest of the time the exhaust sound is very composed, not too loud and barely noticeable especially cruising at highway speeds. Things start to get a little more aggressive in terms of sound at 4.5k - 5k rpm and above.

Thanks for sharing this.. If the axle back exhaust sounds bad, possible to change it back to stock?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457037-370-gt-exhaust/#findComment-7542070
Share on other sites

Just the muffler or with the dual exhaust? Where did you buy it, overseas or some local shops?

Thanks mate

I only changed the muffler, or as they call it, the axle back exhaust. The stock pipes are just fine as they are and even my exhaust guy encouraged me to stick with them. I bought it from a performance shop in the US back in 2012. Took them a few months to get it out to me but I was overseas for all that time so it wasn't an issue and it was the cheapest I found at the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457037-370-gt-exhaust/#findComment-7544186
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...