mkn23

Purchased online @ Z1 Motorsports USA Weighted Shift Knob - 0.4lbs Black Comes with shift boot finisher also in black Unused, comes with soft carry case Suitable for 300ZX, 350Z, 370Z, S13/14, R32/33/34, V35, V36 If you check the Z1 Motorsports it's listed at Competition style with Type 1 finish in polished black. $50, pick up Carlton, NSW and can post at buyers expense

Update: Sold

I've already got the conversion, are the buttons a direct swap or did you program them on opposite sides?

V36 Sedan Front Wheel Bearing So I've just had a wheel alignment as I've had some high speed humming from my wheels at speed and could not figure out the issue. I visited Heasmans Steering (NSW) and they diagnosed that I need my front left wheel bearing replaced. I did some prior research on high speed vibrations and it seemed like a wheel bearing could be a possibility so I was not surprised. Has anyone had experience with front wheel bearings on the V36 (KV36/PV36) sedan chassis? I have found a local distributor on eBay for front wheel bearings for Nissan Skyline V36 and other models (Y50, G35, M35, etc) and OEM part numbers '40202-EG36C & 40202-EG300'. They have confirmed with my VIN and vehicle details that it is a match. That being said, would it be worth while to replace both left and right front wheel bearings to save the hassle later on as I am almost at 110 xxx kms. Any advice would be great, cheers.

Yeah 2009+ is the VQ37HR, currently sitting at 100k atm

got a 2009 V36 sedan with the 7spd, overall it is a good car few mods and it'll be wonderful but as stock things to note would by the clunky transmission which can be fixed up with a tune if you're looking to mod for performance too, you'd have to drop a lot of money to make it faster but for a stock N/A it is definitely quick enough English & GPS on the head unit is sometimes hard to change but if you find the right people they may be able to convert it for you unfortunately i'm looking to trade my car in for something newer and euro in the near future but it has and is still serving my daily driving well

For Sale: Rays Gram Lights 57F Pro Set of 4 with tyres Square set up, same size all round 18x7.5 +47 all round 5x114.3 fits most Japanese models; Nissan, Toyota, Subaru, Lexus etc Good Year Eagle F1 Directional 5 (70-80% tread) worth $500 each brand new 245/45/18 all round $950 ONO Pick up in Carlton, 2218

are those koyas? what are the specs?

You make a good point, I thought I forgot something Can't edit on the phone but the specs are: Front: 18x7.5 +45mm Rear: 18x8.5 +50mm

For Sale: 18 inch Nissan Skyline 370GT Sedan wheels - off 2009 model Some gutter rash evident 3/4 wheels among other small scuffs over time Tires are worn and probably not legal but still driveable if you really need be Will put on eBay if not sold within 2 weeks Located Sydney, NSW Will post at buyers expense $500 ONO

interested in the cruise control, how good does it work and how does it install?

pretty sure you have to get the whole grill cos the backing is made to fit a nissan logo not an infiniti one

Seems a bit odd. Not sure if that's a factory option or not but as far as I know most should have space savers.

For UpRev, just buy the cable online direct from USA, cheapest option. Any reputable tuner then can tune your car on the dyno. But if you're lazy, just go to Tunehouse, 1.6K for Ecutek tune but buy your mods first so no need for retune. Contact Nagoya Motors if you want English/Nav conversion, looking at 2-2.5K

currently using castrol edge 5w40 but my mechanic uses royal purple...worth the switch?

i'm sure a lot of people want them, paying for it is another question

Update: I've fitted the wheels and nuts and it looks okay...bit tucked in so I'll be going with the 25mm spacers from gktech At first the fronts were making a strange noise but I tightened the nuts and it was all good but the rears eventually made a rubbing, squeaking noise every time I braked, checked the rotors and it seemed something on the pad was somehow scratching the rotor, brought to the mechanic right around the corner because I my normal mechanic was booked out till next week and the guy said it just needed to be machined again as it was done properly, so I just let him do his thing to get it over and done with. Picked it up the next morning, the guy said he fit a smaller spacer (wot? didn't realise there was a spacer) to fix the noise but there was some noise still evident but he just said it just needed to be bedded in so off I went and with more driving the noise got louder so now I'll be leaving it on Monday to see what the issue is. And before I went to the mechanic, I put my stock rears back on and the same sound could be heard so it wouldn't be the wheels. Here's a pic

yup...i know, not the best fitment and probably an impulse buy.. but hey, learning curves, i'll make these fit eventually

which brand spacers did you get? everything fun is illegal in Australia.

So after further research, the half nut out front is just a dummy nut removable with the right tools and effort. And I've decided to run 20mm bolt on spacers all round, would that make the fitment 'decent'?

Not really going for the stance look, if I wanted I could just run some spacers maybe but they're my first non OEM wheels for cheap so I'm not fussed. Fronts are +45 and rears are +50, so I assumed +47 would be suitable in the middle of the two. I'll give it another shot tonight with some more tools (and sleep) and take some pictures. Any recommended lug nut brands? Not looking to fork out huge amounts of money but a reliable and decent looking set would be nice. And also would it better to be open ended or close ended?

So I picked up a used set of wheels, Rays Gram Lights 18x7.5 +47 with 245s all round for a good price but I'm having fitment issues. Tire clearance is perfectly fine but actually fitting the wheels on isn't. To my knowledge the stud pattern is 5x114.3 so the rears fit fine apart from my lug nuts which don't seem to fit or lock, correct me if I'm wrong but we can't use OEM nuts and the thread pattern is 12x1.25? And I got the Rays Dura Aluminium for like $50, probably replicas but I don't mind (unless that's the reason they won't lock on properly). The front rotors have this extra half stud thing, did a bit of research and it looks like it's in the place of the rotor lock down nut, the rear rotors have a flat bolt/screw that is flat on the plate whereas the fronts in the same area is protruding outwards. Just wondering if you guys have any solutions before I hassle my mechanic with changing my tires... Cheers guys

stillen supercharger would be the easiest, cheapest and more reliable way to go imo turbo kits are available in LHD and would need to be converted to RHD i think but stock internals don't last too long at high power

speaking of injuries, anyone have any recommendations what to do with a groin strain? not sure where or what it's from but most likely deep or heavy squats i'm thinking resting and stretching and some cardio for a few weeks while i recover

Ah cheers for that $5? Damn...brand new? Paid 90ish AUD for mine