Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I'm trying to find out what other cars or company makes this iacv assembly for the rb25det neo as I'd love to buy a generic brand rather then the hi priced Nissan one. Haven't had any luck does anyone know a cross reference part.

23781-AA500 is the Nissan oem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458463-idle-air-control-valve-help/
Share on other sites

There are none. Pay for the OEM Nissan one. Plenty of places where they can be sourced at a cheaper rate rather than directly from Nissan.

For the record they are not what I would consider expensive but opinions differ. Do you know that you need an actual replacement IACV to begin with also?

Edited by breaker1845

As above

You can easily test the IACV by putting 12V accross the coil. You should feel the solenoid click. If that happens, then likely it is O.K. Mechanically they can be disassembled, cleaned (they clog up with carbon) and put back together. Your only issue might be if a seal gets wrecked/is wrecked, but even then a replacement O-ring wont cost the world

  • 5 years later...
  • 5 weeks later...

The actual solenoid is very similar to some Pulsar N14 GA16 ones .

They had two styles , one type actually fits the R34GTt housing . The N14 one uses the same male connector as the R33 RB25DET's and is probably the one to use with Neo manifold/IAC in R33s .

If you need to get the cold start side apart heat the housing/bung with a heat gun . 

  • 3 weeks later...
On 13/05/2021 at 12:49 AM, discopotato03 said:

The actual solenoid is very similar to some Pulsar N14 GA16 ones .

They had two styles , one type actually fits the R34GTt housing . The N14 one uses the same male connector as the R33 RB25DET's and is probably the one to use with Neo manifold/IAC in R33s .

If you need to get the cold start side apart heat the housing/bung with a heat gun . 

yes this is a good pointer here, and i might add clean it 10 times after you think you have cleaned it enough. i know its a little different but on my 26 i had a leak from the idle screw on my iacv and this caused it always to idle at 1200rpm. ive since removed and dont use one but yeah make sure you clean the piss out of it, i had success with brake cleaner and air.  cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...