Tips On Getting The Attessa 4wd To Engage Faster

[MJTru]

Depending on how this ets pro works ill go with the manual setup. This is really all an experiment really. Im after what works for me the simplest way. I do really want to try the manual setup. I still collecting parts for the setup an thought in the mean while ill give the ets pro a go. I looked over some post and Geoff mentioned that i can run manual mode and when the car is on its way flip the switch to 2wd mode. If i wire the speed sensor with some sort of controller (computer) to interrupt the switch on the ets pro 4wd 2wd mode.

Im suprised that lots og guys here dont really drag race. Someone should make a drag racing section.

Edited October 17, 2015 by MJTru

[iruvyouskyrine]

There is a drag racing section.

Automotive -> Motorsport -> drift and drag

[MJTru]

Interesting. Thanks mate

[R31Nismoid]

You'll be surprised how much difference just altering the plates in the transfer case will make.

IMO it's 70% mechanical and 30% electronic.

The gains you get from the transfer case "mod" (ie, rebuilding, altering the plate arrangement etc) is just exceptional. You get FAR more front end transfer immediately.

It could likely be all you will need, as Joey said earlier and IMO - best post thus far.

[GTR_JOEY]

Have you done the bolt mod, how does it work?

Yep I've got it, I haven't really had a play with it but the car does feel like it hooks up a bit better..

Obviously I could preload it more but I would need to be careful on the 2wd dyno as to not burn out the t case

[GTR_JOEY]

Main problem with that mod is it can be hard to seal the thread so you may get a slight leak

[GTRPSI]

You'll be surprised how much difference just altering the plates in the transfer case will make.

IMO it's 70% mechanical and 30% electronic.

The gains you get from the transfer case "mod" (ie, rebuilding, altering the plate arrangement etc) is just exceptional. You get FAR more front end transfer immediately.

It could likely be all you will need, as Joey said earlier and IMO - best post thus far.

This.....

[XGTRX]

Main problem with that mod is it can be hard to seal the thread so you may get a slight leak

So what's the mod?

I searched but couldn't find anything.

If you cant be bothered explaining, just point me to a link.

Thanks

[GTR_JOEY]

So on the back side of the t case there's a round part that protrudes out.

You still and tap a thread and use a bolt to pre load the actuator.

I'll get a photo next time it's on the hoist

[MJTru]

So on the back side of the t case there's a round part that protrudes out.

You still and tap a thread and use a bolt to pre load the actuator.

I'll get a photo next time it's on the hoist

It makes lots of sense. It would lock the 4wd up like a evo is or any all time 4wd car. Thats what i reall want. But only in a straight line. After that its a nightmare on the way home. So i would rather manipulate the attessa pump for full lock going with the ETS PRO from full race. Or better yet do the mechanical method with the pump. But i wanted to make sure the disks were all good. Then focus on everything else. Good ideas guys. Even when i try this ets pro next week ill do the mechanical pump and try to make a system that has both streetability and drag racing (full lock in mind). By turning a bottle valve and separating the two systems.

We couldn't believe how easy the transfercase was to do. I would recommend it to anyone thats a mechanic.

[MJTru]

Ok guys ets pro just arrived. Will install it this weekend. Here some phots. I will update the results i find.

[MJTru]

I have finished my installation of this ets pro. What i would like to know is. ?? My 4wd light is on. I installed it just as one mate on this did. I would figure the light would come on because the attessa computer picks up an ooen circuit see how the pump wires need to be cut and hook up directly to the ets pro. ???

Can anyone shine some light on this situation

[MJTru]

Ok so we figured out today that the ets pro is working and well at that. We are now leaving the line with full 4wd lock and can feel it. This is in manual mode and hitting the 2wd switch in 3rd. We really dont need to time anything as we can simply feel the difference with these new friction disks. We would like to add the following.

1. We would have loved to see the actual torque split gauge still work for the 660 dollar we paid for the system.

2. We would have loved the company to offer stickers for the modes and percentage for the manual mode nob. Next even a 2wd drive and 4wd sticker.. simple no big deal.

3. If there is a mismatch in tire size the system has no way of knowing this and will damage the transfercase. Thats bad. But we figure the reasoning would be just for racing. ? But the product didn't even come with instructions in the package. Thank god for this site.

4. In our opinion for its to be called a full stand alone system it should first be better at self diagnosis than the oem system. Opinion here. By tracing all wheels sensors. We understand the way it works has nothing do do with wheel sensors. But find it fare as a statement. but wait who cares its simple.

5. The company should mension if its better to use the product in 2wd mode or 4wd mode for simple street driving. As we cant monitor the % of the way it engages the front wheel keeping in mind that there is a nob. It would be nice if there was a way to utilize the factory torque spirit gauge via some sort of output.

Finally we would recommend this unit to anyone. We simply wish the price was way cheaper. So we offered just some ideas to justify the price. We end by saying this is by far the best attessa controller we and i have ever used. Simple. Thanks full race.

Edited November 2, 2015 by MJTru

[s2d4]

You referred to the pump but Isn't it just the solenoid wires that are cut?

I thought the original atessa control unit still think it's working so should not trigger the light on the dash?

Have you completely removed the original unit?

Edited November 2, 2015 by s2d4

[tasty_danish]

So you simply rebuilt your x-fer case as standard? Does ANYONE want to spill the beans on what "altering the plate arrangement" means? There are a handful of threads talking about this but no one actually cares to explain it.

[XGTRX]

There are 2 ways to measure when front wheels get engaged and by what amount, either a pressure gauge on the hydraulics or a volt meter on the solenoid wiring or both. That would be fairly accurate I think

[Hadouken]

So you simply rebuilt your x-fer case as standard? Does ANYONE want to spill the beans on what "altering the plate arrangement" means? There are a handful of threads talking about this but no one actually cares to explain it.

Search harder

[tasty_danish]

very helpful

Edited November 2, 2015 by tasty_danish

[KiwiRS4T]

So you simply rebuilt your x-fer case as standard? Does ANYONE want to spill the beans on what "altering the plate arrangement" means? There are a handful of threads talking about this but no one actually cares to explain it.

Yes its been posted a couple of times. It goes like this:

Transfer case rebuild

Its not the adding of plates.

Its the arrangement of them

There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack,

Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below.....

Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI

Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI

You only need another old transfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required.

You don't need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI

Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below.......

http://www.cusco.co....Guide Final.pdf

[MJTru]

Yes i seen this post before. Thanks for that guys. I thinking of changing the arrangements as well as i should have done so when i rebuild the transfer case.

But i dont mind doing it again. As i have 7 good disk that came out.

Has anyone tried a full lock setup. To see how it works. I have my switch set right as i go into 3rd so that my fingers can hit the switch to rwd mode. See the attached photo.

Im just wondering how it would work on a full lock arrangements for street driving. ?????

As of now i notice that the ets pro applies more transfercase pressure as im driving normal so i opp to leave it in rwd mode and inly use it for drag days.

Edited November 2, 2015 by MJTru