Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas atm im slowly upgrading my fuel system and slowly because theres too much crap to know before its done so learning in the process

Vehicle is r33 gtr series 3

Engine currently running 404rwkw

built by me

(Just coz i can build a motor does not mean i know everything...)

Now i purchased a holley dominator 1800 and a a.i dominator surgetank kit.

Some may know these pumps are a non bypass pump so a min -8 return is necessary.

The issues i have resolved are .

Using my factory feed and return now as 2 feeds for twin entry rail.

Return line will be new -8 the whole way and changing the tomei rail return to -8

A turbosmart reg will have -8 ret on it so all good and is 85 compatible

Issues not resolved yet..

Factory sender output and ret are plastic clip in fittings and are -6 3/8 hose size

How am i to get around this for my min -8 return to tank.. will a -8 overflow from surge to this 3/8 plastic on factory tank be enough to return?

Any advice from people who have done it please i dont want (should and probably) i need this right

Cheers. If i have missed any info needed plz just ask.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458949-omggtr-going-e85/
Share on other sites

Sounds like you need a custom tank lid with bulkhead fittings.

Surge setups can be hard to get right, do you have some pics of yours? The 8an return from the rail normally goes back to the surge tank, if you have a smaller pump intank you usually only need a small return to the main tank.

This is the sender lid

Return tube is 8mm outside diameter so defenetly too small all i need is that to be around 12mm ish and will flow enough but how...

Really duno how no one has done this before thought there would be a common solution. :(

post-53107-0-92523700-1439431282_thumb.jpg

Edited by v8tzr

Yep, sounds fine. No issues with my 6an return running twin 255's, I can drop the pressure well below 30psi base so it's not even close to maxing the return flow. 8an is overkill.

The only issue will be if one pump fails, in your case the one that gets switched in.

you can also carefully remove the return (grind shave etc) and fit AN bulkhead fittings. I done that a few times in R34 GTRS

Exactly what im doing with my R32 factory pump assembly, its the easy way to get bigger lines happening.

Terminals can be added too to get rid of the flimsy thin factory wires and plug if going bigger pump, seen a few of those melt through the years.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...