rb26 2wd hits wall at 200hp at wheels, y??????

[RB26VL]

hey guys i recently had my rb26 vl tuned on 18psi and it would not make anything over 200hp at wheels even on this boost, the autronics shows everything is ok, the turbos are highflowed units, the car runs perfect, but it is gutless coming on boost?? and on the dyno graph compared to a stock turbos gtr it starting making boost 700rpm earlier and the curve is rough and stuttery

(btw previously on 7psi it got 276hp atw) only mods changed are 700cc injectors

we have checked compression which is perfect

no rags in cooler pipes ive checked

fuel maps and spark maps are perfect!!! even though hp curve isnt (up and down)

so my guess is a stuffed turbo maybe???

any ideas people, please i need help

thanks

Brad

[RB26VL]

also btw we tried unbolting exhuast b4 the cat (twin 3' dump pipes) and it still made no difference in power.

its manual 5 speed and twin plate clutch which all seem perfect

we also unbolted the stock twin turbo badged pipe over the turbos and started it and revved it and both turbos spooled up and sounded fine (both pumping same airflow by the feel.)

also spark plugs 3 and 4 (middle 2 cylinders) are really really black and the rest are fine, any problems there???

cheers

Brad

[Lithium]

Were the injectors tested before installation?

[RB26VL]

the fuel supply and spark are perfect and the autronics dyno maps show this to be the case.

so i dont think it is a fuel or spark prob (all inj are workin i checked and all coils r fine too)

also the answer to the question is NO, i didnt get them checked

could the autronics be saying the fuel supply and spark are fine but there could be a problem???? i thought the autronics would pick this up for sure???

cheers for the suggestion mate

bloody frutstrating for me dammit i want power :aroused:

Brad

[makaveli]

sorry to be off the topic mate, although how much roughly did the rb26 conversion cost?

and whats insurance like?

i really want to do that in my 32 gts-t

sorry again

mark

[Lithium]

the fuel supply and spark are perfect and the autronics dyno maps show this to be the case.

so i dont think it is a fuel or spark prob (all inj are workin i checked and all coils r fine too)

also the answer to the question is NO, i didnt get them checked

could the autronics be saying the fuel supply and spark are fine but there could be a problem???? i thought the autronics would pick this up for sure???

Brad

To be honest, not 100% sure - I just figured if you had leaky injectors o- then it would still be possible for the ECU to not pick up on any problem , as the ECU will be looking for anomolies in voltage or anything like that.

Essentially, the injectors could be working as far as the electronic side - as with the ignition etc, but if the fuel is either pouring into the cylinder - or alternatively pouring around randomly then maybe that could be causing problems!? Do you smell any fuel smells around the engine bay or anything?

Just throwing ideas around Sorry if they are a waste of time...

[EnricoPalazzo]

Turbo could be surging as u said it is now making boost earlier then before.

[KamikazeR33]

the actuators r fcuked?

[EnricoPalazzo]

it would then either go crazy boostin or not at all.

[FLYGTR]

Obviously there is a restriction going on here somewhere , you have eliminated the zorst but what about the air filters? or the intake rubber pipes? ive seen a few absolutly kill power . Also do i understand this properly , the car makes 200hp atw regardless of boost? ( upto 18psi) so on low boost say 10psi its still at 200hp?.

adam

compressor surge is very audiable so im presuming you would have noticed this.

[RB26VL]

Obviously there is a restriction going on here somewhere , you have eliminated the zorst  but what about the air filters? or the intake rubber pipes? ive seen a few absolutly kill power . Also do i understand this properly , the car makes 200hp atw regardless of boost? ( upto 18psi) so on low boost say 10psi its still at 200hp?.

adam

compressor surge is very audiable so im presuming you would have noticed this.

hey mate

on spooling up i have noticed occasionally a whooshing sound that varys in level when power comes on (hard to explain sorry ) i know its not the bov and it sounds like a shhh shhh shhh shhh noise as it boosts up.

also we just pulled engine out and noticed the front compress housing on one the turbos was loosely bolted on and could this cause the prob???? (the housing spins freely around)

air filters are brand new k&n pods with custom hpc coated 2.5' intake pipes to the turbos

different dyno days so the 270 was about 6months ago (car doesnt get used much )

in 4 years ive used it about 5 times

to the post about cost, well insurance is $2500 a year which is full cover under my dads name and only 1 company in oz would insure me at the time, which i was 19 i think

now it its in garage and is regoed but no insurance, cause it costs to much atm cosidering i dont drive it much.

conversion labour was zero as my and my dad did it all at home.

to do it right it costs a fair bit, but its well worth it, when it goes good it goes good

on stock boost when it made 280 at wheels it was fast (well i thought so, after rb30et experience)

i got an old website about 3 years ago now but it gots some pics if ya interested

www.geocities.com/psi_vl

engine is now fully polished and engine bay is finished etc etc etc

PM me if you are after more specific info mate

cheers for all ya help

Brad

[GTRgeoff]

After recent experiences with extreme overfuelling I'd be taking a long hard look at the air fuel ratios, especially since you have upsized the injectors.

It absolutely kills power but it boosts still due to the unburnt fuel burning and accelerating the gasses through the turbine. Performance is extremely sluggish. I got it fixed for a 220rwkw result. I'd also check static advance and correction.

The black deposits are clearly from rich mixtures.

[Sydneykid]

HiRB26VL, all engines are simple, fuel plus air plus compression plus ignition equals power. The Autronic tells YOU nothing. It instructs the engine what to do, you will never know what the engine is really doing by lookling at the instructions. You have to look at the output.

So check them again, one by one.

Air first, make sure this is no dead rats in the inlet pipes (I saw it once). Disconnect every thing in front of the compressor inlet and give it a quick run.

Fuel next, how old is the fuel in the tank?

What is the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the dyno under load?

At idle?

At 2000 rpm?

At 4000 rpm?

At 6000 rpm?

What is the igntiion timing, using a timing light?

At idle?

At 2000 rpm?

At 4000 rpm?

At 6000 rpm?

Checked the boost gauge accuracy? I have seen one read 15 psi instead of 1.5 psi.

Disconnect the wastegate actuator feed pipe, by carefull, watch that the boost doesn't get too high. See if it makes any difference.

Do a dry leak down test, what are the %'s on each cylinder?

Good luck, let me know how you get on.

[GTRgeoff]

Dead Rat?

How much extra do they cost and do you get a sticker....Oh and what performace gain is there in rwkw

BTW SK thanks again for the engine build advice. I have a thread somewhere on the results.

RB26VL you can do a lot worse than to take SK's advice.

[RB26VL]

hey thanks for the reply sydneykid

took turbos to turbo shop today and he reckons its been runnin too lean and getting too hot and its got the turbos outta shape, they where rebuilt a year ago with bigger wheels etc and ive only drivin it for about 30 min all up in that time so they are fixing em for nuthin luckily

does this sound like shit or what???

everyone always says its somone elses fault

cheers

Brad

[Mick Trainer]

hey thanks for the reply sydneykid

took turbos to turbo shop today and he reckons its been runnin too lean and getting too hot and its got the turbos outta shape, they where rebuilt a year ago with bigger wheels etc and ive only drivin it for about 30 min all up in that time so they are fixing em for nuthin luckily

does this sound like shit or what???

everyone always says its somone elses fault

cheers

Brad

Out of shape how? Does he mean the housing or the wheels or what?

You mention in your first posts that 3 and 4 plugs where covered in blakc whihc is fuel and shows that the car is running far to rich on these cylinders. Were the others bad but not as bad or where they ok? What are the air/fuel ratios like? Should be around 14.7/1 on idle and drop to around 10.5-12/1 when on boost. This is the first thing you need to know. As stated above the autronic tells you what signals it is sending but what comes out the exhaust is what actualy tells you what is happening. If it has fowled the plugs in 5000kms then this shows a problem. The plugs arn't the problem but your fuel ratios may be.

Mick.

[pistolero]

RB 26 VL- you are wanted in the WA section of Calaisturbo.com

I followed this build for a while on your site- nice work

[TurboX]

I'm with Mick.

The turbo's made boost so are not the problem.

The A/F ratios are the key but consider if the new injectors are blocked/ stuffed /not connected properly/ you might see the correct AF ratio at the tail pipe but maybe thats the balance of 2 really rich cylinders and four partially working.

Have seen it before on my GTS4 when replacing injectors for 550cc RX7's.

I would be looking closer at the injectors and wiring/connectors and also plugs/ignition.

[RB26VL]

I'm with Mick.

The turbo's made boost so are not the problem.

The A/F ratios are the key but consider if the new injectors are blocked/ stuffed /not connected properly/ you might see the correct AF ratio at the tail pipe but maybe thats the balance of 2 really rich cylinders and four partially working.

Have seen it before on my GTS4 when replacing injectors for 550cc RX7's.

I would be looking closer at the injectors and wiring/connectors and also plugs/ignition.

hey turboX thats exactly the info i was after thanks mate and im getting the injectors cleaned tommorow so hopefully all cylinders are even

Out of shape how? Does he mean the housing or the wheels or what?

You mention in your first posts that 3 and 4 plugs where covered in blakc whihc is fuel and shows that the car is running far to rich on these cylinders. Were the others bad but not as bad or where they ok? What are the air/fuel ratios like? Should be around 14.7/1 on idle and drop to around 10.5-12/1 when on boost. This is the first thing you need to know. As stated above the autronic tells you what signals it is sending but what comes out the exhaust is what actualy tells you what is happening. If it has fowled the plugs in 5000kms then this shows a problem. The plugs arn't the problem but your fuel ratios may be.

Mick.

hey mick im not too sure what they meant as they told me over the phone breifly yesterday' date=' and today they rang me and said intake wheels where very pitted showing damage from sand or something (dunno how they got in) maybe in pods when i installed em i dunno, but they repaired them and balanced the wheels again for free so im pretty happy

Engine is currently out being totally stripped externally so i can paint block and polish up parts etc, also gotta paint engine bay as i had a fire on a recent drift day from oil dripping onto one of the turbos.

now i know why i could only manage 100mph at drags a few weeks ago

hopefully when its all back together and gets a good run at the drags i can run some decent numbers on 18psi :aroused:

About the costs of the conversion well i bought my engine and box in the car already unfinished but for the conversion you will need these things plus somethings i forget:

engine $6000 (dont buy cheap pos engines with 90-100k + as they will not last long)

gearbox rb25det $2000

clutch, well my twin plate to handle 800hp was $1600 from direct clutch over east.

exhuast has gotta be at least 3"!!! twin 3" is ideal i reckon but on mine i didnt have enough room so i got twin 3" to the cat then single 3" atm (unbolt at drags). im not sure on price but i can imagine easily over $1000

catch can $100

ECU- i got autronics which is about $3000 all up, or motec 4k or a few others. But remember u get what u pay for.

intercooler - stock gtr cooler is minimum size to use. 100mm thick unit is ideal for further performance.

intercooler piping-?

custom tailshaft - $500 + ??

i used custom intake pipes instead of plastic stock ones - ????

BOV - $200 or so

boost controller - $200+

rb30 sump - also needs slight mod on oil pickup side which is pretty simple to cut and weld (i got heaps of pics on www.geocities.com/psi_vl of the sump mod and how its cut but u gotta goto pictures page and wait for em to load) :bs!: the site is about 4 years old now and i lost all upload programs etc to continue it.

lotsa clamps, bolts, and hoses etc which all add up....

it aint cheap to do the conversion but it is worth it if done with the right mods

btw cant register on calaisturbo.com atm so ill do it when i get our new computer (im using g/f's atm)

anyway im really bored of typing

sorry for the long long long post

Brad