Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, new member here. I'm in the US and as you know, Skylines are just becoming legal here and I was able to scoop one up. I'll admit, I'm not super knowledgeable with the ins and outs of these cars and come from the Subaru world prior to this. Anyway, I purchased a 90 gts-t and was told that the rear diff is pretty aggressive although the importer couldn't tell me what it was. It doesn't seem to be welded going off of my limited knowledge. However, it's pretty annoying honestly (very loud and rough around turns) and I don't plan to track the car or do much more than regular driving, so I plan to just grab a stock rear diff instead. I was hoping to find out what diff is currently on the car though to ensure no strange swaps involving the driveshaft and such were done so I know that what I purchase will fit. Not expecting anyone to know what's going on inside the casing, but rather just want to know if this is a r32 gtst diff or if it looks swapped. Looked at a good bit of photos of others for sale trying to match one up but not having a ton of luck.

I've attached a couple of photos I was able to grab when looking under the car. If any additional photos or info would help in identifying, please let me know and I'll follow up. Appreciate any help!

20862088198_0658ed2995_c.jpg

20862088138_9d22e3a8d3_c.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459394-help-identifying-rear-diff/
Share on other sites

You have to open her up and get a picture of the centre. It might very well be welded.

If you don't want to open it up change the oil and see if it helps.

Thanks for the reply. Even if it's just welded, I'll likely replace it. I'll just be using the car for regular cruising. Just wanted to see if it was a standard r32 gtst casing before I ordered something to ensure it'd fit (in case the previous owner replaced it along with driveshaft or something weird like that. Parts aren't cheap and easy to come by here, so wanted to make sure I am getting the right thing.

It's just a standard casing. No-one would ever normally bother to change that on an R32. The diff itself will most likely be an aftermarket 2-way mechanical. Again because almost no-one would bother welding one when mech centres are readily available and not too expensive. The good news is that a decent mech diff sells for $500-$1000 2nd hand. So you might come out of this with money in your pocket if you can locate a stocker.

FWIW, the stock VLSD is a piece of shit and you will hate yourself if you install one. Single spinners suck dogs' balls.

It's just a standard casing. No-one would ever normally bother to change that on an R32. The diff itself will most likely be an aftermarket 2-way mechanical. Again because almost no-one would bother welding one when mech centres are readily available and not too expensive. The good news is that a decent mech diff sells for $500-$1000 2nd hand. So you might come out of this with money in your pocket if you can locate a stocker.

FWIW, the stock VLSD is a piece of shit and you will hate yourself if you install one. Single spinners suck dogs' balls.

Awesome, thanks. Yeah whatever it is, it's pretty damn rough when doing slow turns. Rather than some wheel squeal and drag, it's more like a clunking and rough drag, almost feels and sounds like the car is just broken. Either way, I'm not a fan and likely don't need it so if I can locate another option for a good price, whether it be a stock one or something much less aggressive, I'll be happy and will crack this open to see what it is and maybe sell to someone who does want it.

that's funny, what you describe is a mechanical diff centre in action. Agreed it's not particularly gentle but as above, if you fit a standard vlsd you'll like cornering and driving in general ALOT less, the mechanical lsd rocks for any kind of performance driving over the stock unit. Here in aus 2ndhand vlsd complete diffs go for about $2-300 so you'd definitely be able to get ALOT more for your mechanical centre if you decide to swap it out.

  • Like 1

wouldn't have to be drift, a lot of people who own skylines modify them in a similar way. Before you ditch the mechanical centre, you could check the settings and adjust it most likely to make it more street friendly. Eg set it to 1-way, not 2way, alter the order of the clutch plates to make it lock less harshly.

I'm pretty good mechanically. Between my brother and I we've tackled just about all maintanence and work to our cars ourselves including some decent builds, fab, paint, etc. Don't have much drivetrain experience though but nothing I likely couldn't figure out. Maybe I'll just crack it open in the near future and see what I'm working with and go from there if I can find some decent how-tos. Currently I'm tackling some rust in the trunk and will be dropping the fuel tank, cutting, and welding new pieces in this weekend hopefully. Luckily my brother runs a laser cutter (not sure the proper name) at my uncles shop and can shape and bend up the pieces for it.

Appreciate the help and info so far!

Edited by Timtim123

On the off-chance it's a Custco diff, this article shows how to tune the diff:

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/2966/Project-370Z-Improving-Grip-by-Tuning-a-Cusco-RS-LSD.aspx

Awesome, thank you. If I cracked open the casing, are they usually pretty clearly labeled, as far as brand and such? I'll prob look into it once I finish some of the bodywork.

If I cracked open the casing, are they usually pretty clearly labeled, as far as brand and such?

No, they're usually not. You will need to do some googling and looking at various manufacturer's sites and there are also many threads on here you can use for reference. Many have no markings at all. By looking at different photos you can usually get close to working out whether it's Nismo or Cusco or one of the other options, as they do look a little different (where they are machined, where they are not, shapes of the openings, etc). You will also be able to work out if it is 1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way if you know where to look and what to look for. Again, this has been discussed on here heaps, so there's plenty of info to help you. At the very least you can take a bunch of GOOD QUALITY HIGH RESOLUTION photos and post them up if you need a second opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...