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Finally got specs on the short motor. No receipts for the parts but the pistons are stamped with spool logos.

The motor is prepped for a 26 head. the head stud holes are tapped out to fit oversized rb26 studs. New ARP head studs and cometic metal gasket to suit - an RB26 head will bolt straight on. ARP RB30 main studs have been used on the bottom end.
Main bearings are .25mm over
Big End bearings are .25mm over
Bore is 86.5mm – (0.5mm over)
compression ratio is 9:1
All bearings are ACL race bearings.

Have confirmed I'll go see him on Wednesday the 23rd, he has one other buyer from interstate trying to get up tpo see him and wouldn't accept a refundable holding deposit but said he would tell me if the other guy was going to get there before me - though he thought that unlikely.

I asked what sort of non refundable deposit he wanted if it came to that and he said just enough to cover doing another roadworthy if I didn't buy, couple hundred at most, so if the other guy gets there before me I'll just put that money down to give me a chance to inspect and first dibs on buying.

Car is in at Godzilla today.

I'm willing to risk a couple hundred to buy me time to get there.

He did say I was far and away the most engaged and knowledgeable buyer, the type of person he was hoping would buy (as the car is his baby etc).

He was fairly confident I would be inspecting first, but said he'd keep me posted.

I'm still trying to wrangle the inclusion of the PowerFC also as I have a mate who wants it :)

Some interesting/bad news.

Car went in for check over and tune - with the bigger exhaust on.

At 18psi, it only maid a bit over 300awkw, which seems low for -5s on 18psi. On 21psi, it made around 335awkw, which to me still seemed low based on RB26 dyno thread figures. Maybe those numbers are RWKW though? Anyone kow what the AW to RW loss is? I didn't think it was very much,

Also, compression test showed this.

150

155

160

135

165

155

That was a cold test. He is going to get it checked elsewhere cold and hot but 135 seems suspect to me, it's also greater than the 14 or so PSI the service manual allows.

I'm interested to see what a second test shows up.

Thoughts?

Spoke to Chris at Race Pace to pick his brain.

Got some pricing on rebuilds etc for reference.

Interestingly, he felt that the PFC was the better ECU for that car, but did admit the Haltech has a lot more features.

As per the above see what the second test shows up.

There's not enough $$ to come from spares to cover the cost of a rebuild at Race PAce, I do have some other options but just wanted to start with those guys.

He's just called me, gone and bought a new gauge and done his own test and claimed that cyl 4 came up as 160.

I questioned if that was warm or cold and he mentioned the car is likely still warm from being in the shop earlier and will do another test tomorrow morning dead cold.

That might explain why it's down on power.

I am so bummed right now I cannot even begin to explain it.

but they wont be able to handle the boost that the bigger -5's can.

I remember this topic being brought up once before, I think it came down to the volume of air that is being smashed into the motor is not much different between the 2. whereas with more boost the -5's leave -7s/-9's for dead

My 32 with -5's made 287kW rears on 18psi stock motor. So not interested in running more than 18 nor 300 club. I'd rather the non-blown engine club.

Seems pretty ok imo.

Made about 246 kW on 14psi as well, cant remember if I had changed anything from the 14 to the 18psi runs.

Edited by okooko

I've always thought you did both and should expect the same type of variance across all cylinders.

If one is down when cold then up when warm, that's a ring sealing issue - which could be rings or bores, but simply rules out valves.

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