Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK update time.

Made the 9hr round trip drive to go and see/drive the car.

The owner was very helpful (and is also reading this thread so please say Hi and be civil).

Below is a gallery of things that stood out as blemishes/concerns/need repair.

Comments welcome, but in particular I was interested in what people thought of the following. As in, will these present long term issues or require expensive repair?

- Opened and re-sealed headlight.

- New seam sealer on inner guard (looks to have been neatly done).

- Surface rust on rear subframe. Spoke to my panel beater about this and he said he thought we could repair it with the frame in, wire wheel, rust convertor and some satin black. He did question the unusual spots which almost look like welds to the right of the hicas rack boot.

- Similar looking spot on the drivers chassis rail.

Comp tested it cold while I was there, barely 5psi variance between all cylinders while cold - seems fine to me. No idea what the tuner was doing when he tested it.

Drives fine/straight.

Paint is quite good and a very nice colour.

Interior has a few blemishes and will need some touch up as pictured.

Compared to what you guys have seen how does this stack up? My 33 was actually a little cleaner interior wise but it was a genuine low low k's garage queen.

http://imgur.com/a/RckNe

Your attention to detail is that of a collector ! I'd totally get you to suss out my next purchase.

Resealed headlights seem fine, although I'm not sure a set of r34 headlights are worth (i rmb them to be $$$ iirc) if theres no signs of air/moisture as is, shouldn't have an issue.

Covers showing slight heat marks probably not seen from a distance, i'd imagine similar marks on the plenum.

Most of the interior you'd never see daily but I can understand just being thourough.

I didn't even inspect my 32 in this much detail and I used to be fussy...

I'd prolly wait for a 34 owners to comment, plus have you seen another 34 yet? it might be worth seeing another in the flesh for a more direct comparison.

Drove fine. No miss, cold start tune could use some touching up.

Pulled fine. A few interior rattles and the Nismo twin plate rattle.

Brakes a little noisy when cold but fine warm. Drove straight, no wobbles up to 80-100 or so.

Couldn't hammer it given where we were.

I dunno, it seems a little rougher than I expected. I really wish I'd driven some others to compare it.

I know its a 15yr old car, but I have another mate telling me it's not indicative of a well kept car (maybe prior to current owner) given the rust and interior blemishes.

When you're spending that much on a car, get something you're in love with. Seems like you're trying to convince yourself its good enough when there's continually things popping up about the car that obviously put you off. That's how id look at it anyway.

I keep that in mind, but I balance it against not wanting to drop 60k on a "clean" one that still needs 15k in mods to be how I want it.

There's a middle ground in there. Just working out what that is.

The rust is my biggest concern.

My opinion...

Car looks a little rougher than what I would have expected.I'm basing this off my R34 GTR which now has 125000 kms. There is alot of steering wheel wear and interior blemishes that suggest its had a bit of a rough life.

Car might have originated from a snowy area of Japan. A few rust spots where a car of that age generally wouldn't have.

Cam covers are def quite 'used' compared to the majority of 34's I've seen

I've since spoken with a number of people who's opinions I trust on these things (repairs and GT-Rs) and all have said don't touch so I'm sad to say I spent a day on the road (and a day out of my holidays) for nothing.

Greatly appreciate everyone's help on this.

The search continues.

In respect to the seller, should I look to have this thread closed?

I do feel the car represents good value to the right buyer, I just don't think I'm that person.

  • Like 2

IMO this is where you're at.

You know the story of the car. Pay less than a "showroom" example and you'll enjoy it more than a garage queen no story car etc and won't be too afraid of getting it dirty and using it to its potential.

+1

It seems like you're after a show car. This is a 'go' car - someone who wants to use it, mod it and extract enjoyment out of it. Not put it on a pedestal and look at it.

I bought a GTT with a few rough edges, my last car was an R33 GTS-t that I was SUPER precious about. I am not precious at all about the GTT. It's there to be used and abused (ok, not ABUSED abused.. but have some fun).

Just depends what you want in a car. When I looked at your inspection photos I was thinking to myself "jesus this guy's anal" - I slowed down when I saw the rust spots but they're not that bad really. The car has probably lived on salt roads back in Japan (snow country). Would I drop 60k on it? Probably not quite that much, I'm also paranoid about things like rust. But if you treated it, it would take a long time to get worse. The accident damage doesn't matter IF it's been repaired properly and I don't see any glaring red flags in those pics.

Seller sounds like a champ btw.

+1. Seems to me that the car isn't hiding anything and nor is the owner. It's not a showroom special but it would be a lot of fun for someone who's not too precious about looks and previous history.

OK update time.

Made the 9hr round trip drive to go and see/drive the car.

The owner was very helpful (and is also reading this thread so please say Hi and be civil).

Below is a gallery of things that stood out as blemishes/concerns/need repair.

Comments welcome, but in particular I was interested in what people thought of the following. As in, will these present long term issues or require expensive repair?

- Opened and re-sealed headlight.

- New seam sealer on inner guard (looks to have been neatly done).

- Surface rust on rear subframe. Spoke to my panel beater about this and he said he thought we could repair it with the frame in, wire wheel, rust convertor and some satin black. He did question the unusual spots which almost look like welds to the right of the hicas rack boot.

- Similar looking spot on the drivers chassis rail.

Comp tested it cold while I was there, barely 5psi variance between all cylinders while cold - seems fine to me. No idea what the tuner was doing when he tested it.

Drives fine/straight.

Paint is quite good and a very nice colour.

Interior has a few blemishes and will need some touch up as pictured.

Compared to what you guys have seen how does this stack up? My 33 was actually a little cleaner interior wise but it was a genuine low low k's garage queen.

http://imgur.com/a/RckNe

My 2c

The rust bothers me.

Repair looks ok from behind a computer. Does look more worn than expected but much more used not abused. Interior doesn't really bother me that much as its all easily replaceable. Its the prior history combined with rust that does.

That said, you now know its mechanically 100% and requires work elsewhere. Would you prefer a cosmetic and structurally 100% car that requires engine work / mods? Which costs more to achieve? Engine work or bodywork, your call?

If it was my money, I'd walk away unless the price was something I simply couldn't turn down. Kudos to the seller though. Hiding nothing. Wish everyone was like that.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...