Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK for shits and giggles I enquired about this...

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3540905

Started talking to the guy on FB. Seems really friendly and helpful.

Assuming it would be a shitbox I started grilling him about how it's obviously been crashed etc.

He's tells me not in the time he's had the car (6yrs) and that he can't see signs of it having been hit... ok weird. "I tried to find the cleanest stock one I could".

Questioned the guards, bonnet, and front bar, boot.

He tells me, the bonnet came on the car, the guards he had made up (fibreglass but apparently really good quality, google tells me the nismo z tune guards are even fibre glass and only the actual z tune had CFRP guards).

The boot he had painted because he likes the look. Front bar and spoiler have been sold as he was not planning on selling the car. A top scret replica front diffuser is there as are the stock mirrors and guards.

He tells me the car also has a PFC (not listed on the ad), tuned for 240kw with stock turbos etc (1.2bar) as that's all he wanted.

Rims are also genuine.

I ask for some more interior photos - see gallery it's easily cleaner than the QLD car and not the existence of v-spec sensors on this apparently non v-spec car (i know you can add those sensors later indivudally and reconfigure the MFD or go the nismo MFD way)

He's getting me a VIN so I can do some digging and confirming K's etc.

He tells me underside is quite clean and nothing like the car i showed him and the only rust on the car is the two radiator tabs and that's why he showed me those.

I'm starting to think this could be a good cheap base to work off, spray the front bar, bonnet, boot, re-add spoiler (A mate of mine is an excellent spray painter with a business etc), get a rear diffuser and fit top secret replica front. -9s, injecotrs, pump, cams/gears and retune.

Am I crazy? OF course I would inspect for signs of crash damage, but if you could get this cheap and the k's and condition checked out...

http://imgur.com/a/FZIjK

Edited by ActionDan

Turbos seem to be about 1500-2k on the gtr group, injectors 500, fuel pump 200 or so and afms 4-500? 3k or so then a bit more if i wanted cams and gears, gears alone are bugger all.

Maybe 4k in parts there, rear diffuser is expensive 1500-1800 so i would just sit on that til i found one cheap.

The paint work would cost me the cost of the paint and some beers.

If you got the car for 40, spent 7 or so, that doesn't seem too bad?

The QLD car was going to be 46k with the spares so it would have come out cheaper but with all that rust to deal with and 55000 more ks (if the ACT car is genuine, wont surprise me if not).

Edited by ActionDan

8-10k if starting from scratch I think?

This has EBC, PFC and "full hks exhaust mines dump pipes" already.

I would be "guessing" to say that if it has dumps and an HKS exhaust it likely has fronts and cats done but fair point as that's extra cost, neither of which are that expensive.

Already has ATS clutch as per the ad,

Cam gears are cheap.

Tune is a valid point, I'm not sure if there's a 4wd dyno here so would likely get Chris at RacePace to tune it, when I spoke to him last he said tunes for adding mods like that aren't too bad, 4hrs etc, so less than 1k. I know some local tuners but the dyno access is the issue, one of the 4wd shops might have one but they get pissy about letting people use them.

I can do all the labour required (not painting but that's mates rates).

Edited by ActionDan

Dan that's a bit of a hidden gem imho.
Many won't have even considered because of the boot/bumper.

I personally would go stock guards, bumpers etc but that's me.

Leaves you a LOT of wiggle room to do things how you want. And you can play with cars again (aka hunt for parts etc)

DO IT

I thought that to switch R34 into RWD mod required bleeding the ATTESA system afterwards as it needs t be depressurized or something?

Didn't think it was as simple as dropping a fuse like the 32.

"I can do all the labour required".

I've fitted turbos before. Is it a shit job? Yes, but I'm capable of it. I've tuned (cheating as its only SAFC and SITC combo and some cam gears), aligned, and done all the upgrades on my track car plus all the service and repair of anything else I've had in the past including replacing a blown headgasket in the track car.

Swapping out a TT setup will be balls, but I'll get there when the time comes.

Dan that's a bit of a hidden gem imho.

Many won't have even considered because of the boot/bumper.

I personally would go stock guards, bumpers etc but that's me.

Leaves you a LOT of wiggle room to do things how you want. And you can play with cars again (aka hunt for parts etc)

DO IT

I'm wondering this too. inspection and VIN review will tell me more so not getting my hopes up.

I like the Z tune guards, bonnet and bumper combo - once colour coded. Plus when I run off the track and smash up the front bar I won't cry as much knowing it was FRP.

I have the track car to play with so really I'm not looking to play with something else and don't get enough time as it is, but I'm not willing to drop 60-70 to get a fully done one how I want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...