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Ha ha the best thing you have ever written.

Seriously though, rbs are a prick to find water leaks. Check all the little hoses around the engine. I had a similar problem for ages and I thought the worsed and it ended up being the joiner near the clutch master cylinder, only saw it because I was under the car and noticed drip stains on the bell housing. Hopefully its just something like that. Usually if its head related the engine start to sound different.

Edited by XGTRX

A minute hairline crack in the flame ring, which only opens up under heat and boost is impossible to find without removing the head. You can try pressure testing, and carbon testing the coolant, but mine only ever pushed combustion pressure into the cooling system on heavy load. I drove it like that for a year before it let go in a big way. Depending where the leak is, internal or external, there must be coolant going somewhere it shouldn't.

Larger studs help, but they still don't have the clamp force of the newer 625+ or old L19 studs. Think of the studs as a spring pushing the head down onto the block.

I also use a little Hylomar spray on my MLS gaskets, just in case a small crack propagates it will hopefully stop it leaking. My engine builder does the same. Relying on the machinist to make a perfectly smooth block surface will likely end in tears I believe.

  • Like 1

Thanks fellas, I will write down all of your suggestions and pass it along.

If they do not find it on Monday I will have to think seriously about having the head checked out properly :ermm:

Here is the Video of the leak that was fixed

Keep in mind I had never seen this leak and had been looking for 3 months while I waited to have the repairs done, not a drop or wet spot.

Looks like we have got some good news on the coolant loss.

Enclosed are pics of the tool we made to constantly pressurise the cooling system at approx 20psi all day Saturday with no coolant loss.

This morning we put the tool back onto it to continue pressurising the cooling system and within about 10-15min the enclosed video will show you the result.

Prior to testing on Saturday we noticed a small amount of residue around that area but couldn’t confirm a leak during testing.

I just do not understand why it took a full day of being pressurized to 20psi and nothing, then 15 minutes the next day you can have a shower under it, but I am a cynic and have no expertise in coolant problems, maybe one of you blokes can explain it?

Leak.MOV

piss that silicone hose off and get oem.

metal and water mate. has to be the right conditions to replicate

The hose was changed

Do not understand the metal and water line ?

Thanks fellas, I will write down all of your suggestions and pass it along.

If they do not find it on Monday I will have to think seriously about having the head checked out properly :ermm:

Just get them to do a compression/ leakdown test while they have it. That will tell you if you have a head issue. :)

Metal expands and contracts which could make or hide leaks.

It's a red hose... Ain't oem

Please understand, I do not know what is wrong or if anyone is to blame. I cannot help how my mind works .

The car was loosing water the same day I picked it up from the build and it was only using a similar amount of water for the 3 months while I waited to have the repairs done.. After the leak was found and "fixed" it was only a month or so before it started to loose water again and it ended up exactly the same as before the leak was found. In my mind, I find it hard to believe that the problem was fixed by changing the hose.

I think that nothing was fixed and that there was a patch job done by using some type of stop leak product and over some time it has gone back to how it was. I might be 100% wrong but for something to be acting in a certain way for months, then the problem was found and fixed, to go back to exactly the same problem, seems unlikely to me.

But it would not be the first time I have been wrong :yes::3some::3some::3some::3some::3some::rolleyes:

No one would use an additive to fix that type of leak.

Replace the hose and check the clamp doesn't have a rough edge. (Piercing the hose).

Make certain not to over tighten the clamp

Check the end of the pipe hasn't been taken out of round.

Take it in on Monday. If its a coolant leak then they will note it on a pressure test and then you have to find it (PITA), do a comp test and they will see if its the head/ gasket, if it's neither then as suggested the head might be lifting. I know its a pain in the ass but shit happens. Our cars aren't factory anymore and little shitty things like this happen often. Relax till Monday.

No one would use an additive to fix that type of leak.

Replace the hose and check the clamp doesn't have a rough edge. (Piercing the hose).

Make certain not to over tighten the clamp

Check the end of the pipe hasn't been taken out of round.

Additive to fix what type of leak ?

The hoses were changed to a black type , car came back OK then after some time went back to EXACTLY the way it was. Understand there was NO VISABLE LEAK at any time, they had it on a pressure gauge at 20psi ALL DAY and nothing! Then the next day you could shower under it ?

All I have said it is the strangest thing I have seen if this was the original problem, cant find a leak, find the leak in the most visible situation after HOURS of being pressurized, change the hose, leak fix, short time later after the leak had stopped, it slowly went back to how it was ??

I am just stating the facts as they are and the only thing that made sense to me was an additive was used to mask a problem that was in the too hard basket to repair, this "​does not mean" it is what happened but from years with cars and seeing how stop leak products work, it seems the same outcome ????????????????????

Alrighty. I see what is going on here.

Pete, we have to stop talking about previously for a second. You keep going back and forth and I/we are loosing track.

So the car has a black hose - tick

You don't know where the leak is...

You are pressure testing on Monday...

You think they used chemiweld (additive) to fix the hose....

Have you squeezed the top radiator hose close to the clamp with the car idling?

Hi, been away for the weekend

Firstly , some of you blokes should read what was said before you post.

I said the hose was changed at least twice in this thread , most of you know the story and still don't get it.

The water lose started the day I picked it up from the 3.2 build, waited 3 months to get the car back into the shop to check out the water lose and a few things to be sorted from the build.

They pressurized the radiator ALL day on a Saturday and found nothing, then did it on Monday and "found the leak "THE VIDEO" were it was pissing out. They changed the hose and said it was fixed , took the car home and for a month or so it was OK, THEN started to loose water again.

Now it is back to how it was after the build .

NO SYMPTOMS

NO water leaking under the car

NO water in the oil

No oil in the water

No bubbles in the water

No sign of leaks from ANY hose that I can see

NO water vapor out of the exhaust

So here I am about 5 months after the build, the hose was changed because they said this was the water lose problem. A month or so after the hose was changed and the water had stopped disappearing , it started again, it is no EXACTLY the same as it was before the hose was changed and NO SIGN WHERE THE WATER IS GOING!

The car goes in tomorrow and if nothing can be found I will have to take it in for a serious assessment , I would hate to stuff the motor up as the car runs great and shit loads of fun

Thanks for the blokes that had something to contribute :)

The other , HGAS :special:

  • Like 1

Hey 75 Coupe, my basic knowledge about cars is fine.

My knowledge about modifying cars was nil up to 18 month ago and it seems the more you learn the less you know , so I guess you have learnt a lot

  • Like 1

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