Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know your going in tomorrow and it should be found.

But could you tell me what is the current rate of water loss?

Do you believe it leaks whilst driving, or after you have driven for 20 minutes or more and parked it?

Does it sound like its bubbling when you stop?

Have you had a real good look and feel around the back of the block near the fire wall?

edit: It's been my personal experience when you stop a leak another is found. UNLESS all hoses are replaced.

I hope this was done during the build. Although CRD failed to do this with mine and I had 1 leak then another. So bit the bullet and did the lot.

Edited by Sinista32

It's honestly so hard to keep track of your escapades.

I like how you broke it down in that post just now.

Are you taking it to a local mechanic? Make sure everything is documented for possible future dealings with crd

edit: It's been my personal experience when you stop a leak another is found. UNLESS all hoses are replaced.

I hope this was done during the build. Although CRD failed to do this with mine and I had 1 leak then another. So bit the bullet and did the lot.

In general engine builders won't change all the hoses, sure they inspect them and make a recommendation if they are substandard, but unless the customer requests it they won't change them. Edited by XGTRX

I can understand that.

It's not until they start leaking and you start replacing them it becomes clear what a pain it can be and how much easier it would've been to replace while the engine was out. Under the plenum and back of the block especially.

  • Like 1

As I said, the water lose started the first day I drove it home from the build. I do not know what hoses were changed, the one with the leak was on the car before the build.

It would loose about 500mm on a drive using boost over 60klm , it is the SAME as it was after the build, no more, no less ??

I went to Newcastle Saturday, drove around over the 2 days, about 420klm and it used about 700mm all up. No sign of the motor over heating. Nothing to see.

I looked for the leak fro 3 months while I waited for it to go back into the shop. FOUND NOTHING!

It was in the shop for a month before they said they found the problem, They changed the orange hose and it was alright for about a month and then it went slowly back to how it WAS after the build! That is why I asked about stop leak products.

You cannot see where the water goes, how many times do I have to explain this.

What I love about some blokes on this site , I get pissed on because of the shit that has happened to me and I ask for some advice, I DID NOT DO THE WORK, I DID NOT BREAK ANYTHING, I PAID TO HAVE WORK DONE LIKE THE REST OF YOU BLOKES. I DID NOT WANT THIS SHIT TO HAPPEN!!!!!

For you blokes that go on about me having too much money and know nothing about cars, I know what I want and paid to have it done and except for fark ups from the mechanics side my car now runs the way I wanted it to. It has good response and keeps going. :nyaanyaa:

Wish I had enough money to pay someone to do my cars. My knuckles and back are jealous.

Hope they find the leak mate and you can finally enjoy the car without worry.

Thanks mate

Still driving the car as normal, just check the water every morning. But from some of the advice I have from a couple of blokes that actually read the posts before typing, I had better get it sorted ASAP or I could have a major motor melt down :(

I know about backs, I am a retired upholsterer . worked Fn hard to be able to do this build , I never whinged about the money, only when I had bad results that should have been sorted before the car was given back to me ?

The way some of the blokes go on you would think I wanted this shit to happen, got me stuffed if I can work some of them out as they seem to get pleasure out of someone elses problems ?

Thanks mate

Still driving the car as normal, just check the water every morning. But from some of the advice I have from a couple of blokes that actually read the posts before typing, I had better get it sorted ASAP or I could have a major motor melt down :(

I know about backs, I am a retired upholsterer . worked Fn hard to be able to do this build , I never whinged about the money, only when I had bad results that should have been sorted before the car was given back to me ?

The way some of the blokes go on you would think I wanted this shit to happen, got me stuffed if I can work some of them out as they seem to get pleasure out of someone elses problems ?

It's not that. It's that you enjoyed a lot of the shit talking and piss taking in the last thread, light hearted humor while knowing full well that the problems have to be fixed and the stress and worry should be on the builder and tuner and not yourself. But we can see it's got you and a few members quite worried.

It should have been sorted before it was given back to you, but humans do have moments of lapsed judgment and sometimes moments of complete stupidity, especially when it comes to money and time spent.

All I can say is is that yes the leak must be found ASAP. Could be a number of things or a multitude. Whether that may be hoses, cores, gaskets etc.

Just sit back and let them find it. ;)

It's not that. It's that you enjoyed a lot of the shit talking and piss taking in the last thread, light hearted humor while knowing full well that the problems have to be fixed and the stress and worry should be on the builder and tuner and not yourself. But we can see it's got you and a few members quite worried.

It should have been sorted before it was given back to you, but humans do have moments of lapsed judgment and sometimes moments of complete stupidity, especially when it comes to money and time spent.

All I can say is is that yes the leak must be found ASAP. Could be a number of things or a multitude. Whether that may be hoses, cores, gaskets etc.

Just sit back and let them find it. ;)

I love the piss taking and take it in the way it was intended, just sometimes it is just smart arse talk from little boys and I like to fire a few cheap shots back, haha

not everything is going to go swimmingly with a 15 year old car pumping more than double its original power output.

especially when you are so concerened with "time" and the way a certain workshop has treated you (most probably due to your age)

In short, you cant see where the water is going then the water must be lost internally. and at the rate of loss you are describing it will almost definitely have to go straight back to crd.

The bloke that does my work here has been building and racing cars all of his life but more the V8 types of cars , so he will be able to give it a good going over and I will then take his advice should I need to take it for a head off job as he does not have the equipment for tuning etc should it need it and I would like to do it all at once and I will take it to Jez.

The way some of the blokes go on you would think I wanted this shit to happen, got me stuffed if I can work some of them out as they seem to get pleasure out of someone elses problems ?

You are serious right? Or is this a joke?

not everything is going to go swimmingly with a 15 year old car pumping more than double its original power output.

especially when you are so concerened with "time" and the way a certain workshop has treated you (most probably due to your age)

In short, you cant see where the water is going then the water must be lost internally. and at the rate of loss you are describing it will almost definitely have to go straight back to crd.

What has my age got to do with a professional workshop doing the work properly the first time, oh and the 2nd time, whoops 3rd time ?

As far a the car being 16 years old, there in nothing much left under the hood that is not new and the drivline is the same.

Doing this sort of build, I think one should expect to have new hoses. But I do not believe the problem was ever the hose , but ??

You may except this situation but for me after you have given someone 3 goes at something it is time to move on.

I was told by the builder that the car is fixed and I should take it to my local bloke as the new lwater lose should not be hard to find, you just gotta luv em :wub:

They have washed their hands of the car and mentioned "the car has had substantial work and tuning performed on it since it left here a few months ago."

So as far as they are concerned, I am on my own, but it will depend what the problem turns out to be ?

Exactly, they know you dont know your way around the car and they stereotype you as a "old man" that wont follow anything up.

You say "everything" should have been done. But in reality that is not how it works, because people have different goals, skill level, visions and blah blah. If you want something specific done then you ask for it. As soon as you drop a car off and say here is my wallet I want xxx KW then you will most definitely be taken for a ride.

Before you fly off the handle, this is not a dig at you so relax.

And seems like it was a nice ride for CRD which my opinion of has changed substantially.

Exactly, they know you dont know your way around the car and they stereotype you as a "old man" that wont follow anything up.

You say "everything" should have been done. But in reality that is not how it works, because people have different goals, skill level, visions and blah blah. If you want something specific done then you ask for it. As soon as you drop a car off and say here is my wallet I want xxx KW then you will most definitely be taken for a ride.

Before you fly off the handle, this is not a dig at you so relax.

And seems like it was a nice ride for CRD which my opinion of has changed substantially.

You are kidding, right?

I chose all of the parts to go in the car (except the Turbo) and bought most of them before the build started and had it dropped off at the shop.

I knew exactly what I wanted from the car and GOT IT, might have had to go to someone else to finish it but got it done. My car works fine with the work " I " had them do, how they did it is out of MY control.

I did not hand them my wallet, I got a quote from them. Checked it out through 3 other shops and it was under the other quotes but the final bill was about the same, so what are you talking about???

Stick a good driver in my car and except for the brakes and suspension it would give most a run for their money , track or street.

Best of all, I farken love it :wub: Just need a jug of water and away you go :action-smiley-069:

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

Simple solution here...........sell it to me!!! Of cause I will be broken hearted about the leak but I've live through it :rofl2:

Seriously, stick at it, its only one small nagging problem.........12 months from now you won't even remember it [well maybe a little bit].

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...