Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm using adaptronic but thanks for the info, others will surely not know that.

Just get a contenental sensor, visit jaycar for the connectors then bam you've got flex :)

I'm running it now, just one downside you need a good 98RON map then you need to use the compensation tables to build the E85 maps. I would have preferred of adaptronic had two maps (one for each fuel type) and interpolated them based on ethanol concentration.

Nistune does an amazing job at this, too bad it runs an AFM, if it ran a MAP sensor I would drop the adaptronic right away.

  • Like 1

Just get a contenental sensor

Only thing is trying to find where to get one John, not so much about what sensor to get.

Status linked the ebay seller but I just don't know if you can trust that it's a real sensor that will work.

Other places sell them for like $300+

Which seems too expensive when they can be had on ebay for $70

Other places sell them for like $300+

Which seems too expensive when they can be had on ebay for $70

There are plenty of knock-offs around, they work, but they are not acurate enough to use on a performance car.....we saw up to 20% difference between ten sensors in testing.......you get what you pay for, I'm guessing that is why Haltech only warranty with their sensor. Edited by Sub Boy32

If only Nistune can do both. having AFM on Wot and MAP on cruise.

Just get a contenental sensor, visit jaycar for the connectors then bam you've got flex :)

I'm running it now, just one downside you need a good 98RON map then you need to use the compensation tables to build the E85 maps. I would have preferred of adaptronic had two maps (one for each fuel type) and interpolated them based on ethanol concentration.

Nistune does an amazing job at this, too bad it runs an AFM, if it ran a MAP sensor I would drop the adaptronic right away.

the one i listed was genuine... tested identical to the GM conti sensors

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-Harness-Part-13352241/dp/B00TA7TE74/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1444792897&sr=1-1&keywords=13352241+gm+harness

Is the harness, but have you made one the plugs using parts obtained in aus?

internal connectors you'll need from JayCar to plug up the flex sensor and other shit

I believe the R34 is same as R33 Adaptronic, where youse CAS3 as the input for the flex sensor.

HM3406

HM3408

yes, that's right.. well you might as well make the loom once so you're able to connect other stuff down the line...

Like ON/OFF switch for launch

Other Temp sensor, e.g. fuel temp OR oil temp (I've got fuel temp going to mine)

You really only need the 8-pin connector for flex, as the IAT (if you're running one) goes on the ECU plug (for R32/33 and GT-Rs anyway).

post-22311-0-42202300-1444801422_thumb.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...