Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good morning sir,

In order for this great community to assist you in this half arsed attempt at seeking information on something that you are not well rehearsed in then we will require a little bit more information on what you require.

  • Like 1

It's the big round thing under the steering wheel to the right...... You put the pointy thing that came with your car in it and turn and It makes the car manual for you to control.... Amazing stuff really. Technology these days just blows my Mind! BOOM[emoji378][emoji95]

Edited by Lakes101
  • Like 1

I'm thinking Lee has an error code he wants cleared?

Plugged in the consult II 1 error code "Manual mode switch" this will not clear at all

The manual shift worked fine before I pulled the engine and fully stripped and rebuilt it. Left the box in the car and only unplug from the engine, leaving all harness's wires plugs where/next to final place been.

Reason for not pulling box out with engine was space plus subframe was easy to clean off with the CV grease ect covered all over it.

Is this the switchpost-92288-14436852006203_thumb.jpg

Cheers Lee

It's the big round thing under the steering wheel to the right...... You put the pointy thing that came with your car in it and turn and It makes the car manual for you to control.... Amazing stuff really. Technology these days just blows my Mind! BOOM[emoji378][emoji95]

Cheers man you learn something new every day.

Is it you 1st day to school too ?

  • Like 1

I don't know about a manual mode switch. Was your car a converted auto or always a manual? If it was a converted auto there is a bit in the DIY section on manual conversions which tells you which fuses/terminals under the battery you have to short out to allow the engine to assume that the g/box is in neutral so it can start.

A quick search suggests your pic is of the auto g/box ecu

as far as i knew, auto ecus work fine but you need to trick the "park switch" and some other switch into beleive its always in gear.

Like so
DSC05438.jpg
The plug at the top has been looped to complete the inhibitor switch circuit so the car believes it is in Park

I've never worked on an C34 but I'd say under the centre console. It looks like a logic control unit so it'll be looking for the position between the gear selector and then opening the circuit to the steering and stick shift switches and sending that back onto to the tranny control unit. They're often hidden in and around the centre consoles on other cars. I'd say given the simplicity of it's function, if it was all good then dead after install, you've probably accidentally loosened a connector.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...