Jump to content
SAU Community

Where Is The Manual Mode Switch ?

Stealth400

By Stealth400,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

Good morning sir,

In order for this great community to assist you in this half arsed attempt at seeking information on something that you are not well rehearsed in then we will require a little bit more information on what you require.

  • Like 1
Lakes101 Experienced

Lakes101

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's the big round thing under the steering wheel to the right...... You put the pointy thing that came with your car in it and turn and It makes the car manual for you to control.... Amazing stuff really. Technology these days just blows my Mind! BOOM[emoji378][emoji95]

Edited by Lakes101
  • Like 1
Stealth400 Enthusiast

Stealth400

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm thinking Lee has an error code he wants cleared?

Plugged in the consult II 1 error code "Manual mode switch" this will not clear at all

The manual shift worked fine before I pulled the engine and fully stripped and rebuilt it. Left the box in the car and only unplug from the engine, leaving all harness's wires plugs where/next to final place been.

Reason for not pulling box out with engine was space plus subframe was easy to clean off with the CV grease ect covered all over it.

Is this the switchpost-92288-14436852006203_thumb.jpg

Cheers Lee

Stealth400 Enthusiast

Stealth400

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's the big round thing under the steering wheel to the right...... You put the pointy thing that came with your car in it and turn and It makes the car manual for you to control.... Amazing stuff really. Technology these days just blows my Mind! BOOM[emoji378][emoji95]

Cheers man you learn something new every day.

Is it you 1st day to school too ?

  • Like 1
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I don't know about a manual mode switch. Was your car a converted auto or always a manual? If it was a converted auto there is a bit in the DIY section on manual conversions which tells you which fuses/terminals under the battery you have to short out to allow the engine to assume that the g/box is in neutral so it can start.

A quick search suggests your pic is of the auto g/box ecu

as far as i knew, auto ecus work fine but you need to trick the "park switch" and some other switch into beleive its always in gear.

Like so
DSC05438.jpg
The plug at the top has been looped to complete the inhibitor switch circuit so the car believes it is in Park

nickrussel Apprentice

nickrussel

Posted
Posted

I've never worked on an C34 but I'd say under the centre console. It looks like a logic control unit so it'll be looking for the position between the gear selector and then opening the circuit to the steering and stick shift switches and sending that back onto to the tranny control unit. They're often hidden in and around the centre consoles on other cars. I'd say given the simplicity of it's function, if it was all good then dead after install, you've probably accidentally loosened a connector.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...