Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well since noone has answered and as an owner of a turbo car its pretty important that you are able to identify it, ill give it a go.

Basically pinging is uncontrolled burning of the air/fuel mixtures in the combustion chamber of your engine. Controlled is when the spark plug ignites the mixture, uncontrolled is when for any number of reasons such as poor fuel, excessive heat, excessive boost/ignition that the mixture ignites without spark, which is a bad thing as the piston isnt in the right position and isnt ready for the ignition/expansion part of the process. ie piston tryin gto go up, yet combustion of mixture wants to send piston down and something has to give usually a piston, sometimes a rod out the side of the block.

So thats what it pinging / detonation is. What it sounds like is small pins dropping inside a metal tin. It is not always audible, but in extreme cases its pretty hard to miss with audible tell tales, plus puffs of smoke from the exhaust and sadly dead pistons, rods etc etc.

Typically if an engine starts to ping, by the time you can hear it, its time to address it immediately, and is usually mated with a slight to sometimes severe drop in power.

How to fix it, take it to the experts to rectify. It can be as easy as rigging up a good cold air intake to drop inlet temps, improved intercooling, reduction in back pressure, running different spark plugs, tweaking fuel & ignition maps... or any combination of these things.

But i would be ensuring that the engine is breathing properly with nice exhaust and inlet flow, and oil and water temps are being properly controlled before you fiddle with the fuel and ignition tuning of the engine, as ultimately you could be masking a defeciency in your engine if you simpy wind out ignition, drop boost or add fuel etc.

Hope that helps!

I generally agree with ROY, but you can experience Detonation when the ignition of the Air/Fuel charge is initiated at the correct time by the correct means - the spark at the plug.

This is one subject that there is a lot of talk about that is not always correct as there are so many variations on cause and effect known by many different names.

I dont profess to understand it completely, but I do know that it is important to do everything in your control to try and prevent it.

Roy's last paragraph is good advice, and I belive that there are many other things to do that can reduce the chances as well,

including ensuring your Timing & Air/Fuel ratios are correct under boost on a dyno, your fuel filter is not more than 2/3 yrs old or not partialy blocked, injectors clean, decent fuel pump at right rail pressure, no oil soaked blowby going into your intake via PCV, Pod filter sucking hot underbonnet air, dirty Air filter, dirty Fuel pump filter, low voltage at fuel pump under load, and my personal favourites, no sharp edges in combustion chamber!

This includes Spark Plug Threads, valve reliefs in pistons, head shaved edges, valve seat machining, piston indents etc.

Unfortunately the head has to come off for these extreme measures but I think it all counts towards more safer power and if you have it off to be ported etc why not do it?

It does reduce your Comp Ratio slightly, but that lets you run more boost safely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...