Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst Fuel Pump Upgrade

White32gtst

By White32gtst,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

White32gtst Rookie

White32gtst

Posted
Posted

does anyone know what the best fuel pump upgrade for a 1993 r32 gtst would be, running GTR injecotrs. Placed a Walbro gss342 in it a few weeks back and I would fail under load, guys at autobarn said most people run them in their 32s. Just wondering which one is best that I don't have to rewire and run constant 14v to it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460208-r32-gtst-fuel-pump-upgrade/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Stock pump?

Seriously, it's a wire, a fuse and a relay, and there are multiple threads with pictures showing how to rewire a pump for 14v. It's not rocket science.

The only other pump that might work is the Nismo/Tomei pumps, but I wouldn't rely on the stock wiring for that kind of flow personally.

  • Like 1
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Yeah stock pump feels like it's coming to its end. I've researched lots about that rewire but apparently you can have problems with fuel over heating and evaporating

Nonsense! Before I got my surge tank my in tank directly wired Walbro GSS 341 ran fine - never heard of anybody's fuel disappearing through evaporation!

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

The Walbro worked without rewiring but I put in a direct wire and relay because the pump will live longer that way and because I was getting a bigger turbo. There are a couple of tutorials in the DIY section.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The 341 would have been $400 over the counter. :P

Go to Jaycar, buy a relay, some wire and a fuse and run it to the battery. It need to be done, the Walbro's and most other aftermarket pumps require 12V minimum or the brushes will burn out. (The less the voltage, the more current is required to spin the pump.)

Your fuel temp will be fine with a 255L Walbro, it's when you go to a surge tank that it really becomes a problem.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I'm sorry but voltage and current go hand in hand. They are not 2 different entities.

V = I R

you failed at physics :)

why would resistance change?

you need to change the equation to:

P = VI, now say "if" the pump is run at 3bar base pressure + 1.5bar of boost (because yolo).. it would require ~11amp at 13.5V to run the Walbro 255.

This means, it will consume 148.5 watts

so put that back into the equation, now it becomes 148.5 = V x I, now as you reduce V, you need to increase I

Let's say we run the pump at 12V, that becoming 148.5 = 12 x I, current now has increased to 12.375AMP

A good real world example, high voltage power lines are in the 10s of thousands.. the reason behind this is to carry lower current, thus less resistance

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

I never said resistance will change. (Only partially true though because heat plays a big role on resistance)

Ohms law states that voltage and current are proportional.

I see what you are saying.

With your power line theory we can go 10kv over the line which lets say is 100 ohm now let's check current flow.

V = IR

10k = I x 100

I = 100 amp

Let's now reduce the voltage at the same resistance.

5kv = I x 100

I = 50 amp

Current is voltage flow. It will flow directly proportional to that of voltage if resistance does not change.

In order to calculate power with no other factors changing which you have done, you have to go back to the first step and see if any factors have changed ie resistance would most probably have to change in that factor.

I get a sense that some of this might be misinterpreted as "having a go" but if in person this would turn into a great discussion.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Correct in most cases, unless the resistance changes.

Running a pump at 8v will burn the brushes out, the motor is designed to run at 12+v, not 8v with load. I have removed many for that reason.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

Yeah stock pump feels like it's coming to its end. I've researched lots about that rewire but apparently you can have problems with fuel over heating and evaporating

I use the Walbro GSS 341 wired directly to the battery. I can also confirm there are no fuel heating issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...