Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the market for a 33 or a 34, but keep getting distracted by other things that seem to represent better value. I should add this is just for a weekend car and the rare track day as I already have a dedicated track hack.

Example. for 35-40k you can get a nice Evo X which by all accounts is just as capable if not more so than a 34 around a track and for less maintenance.

Another example, for 55-60k (decent 34 money) you can get a nice M3/C63.

Who else has been in this position and gone for something else or had the GT-R then ditched it for something better/different?

Evo interiors don't thrill me plus they seem a little, I dunno, feminine?

Not sure I'd feel quite the same doing a weekend cruise in my Evo when compared to a GT-R.

That might be "my" answer, but I'm interested in hearing others opinions.

The value for money part of my brain is not loving GT-Rs right now.

Edited by ActionDan

Have driven 33s (owned one) and 34s, haven't driven Evo's/FDs/Supras/M3s etc as my experience has all been Nissan (not counting some of my Ford/Toyota/Holden daily drives).

Enjoy the "drama" of driving a 26, rev's, noise, boost etc.

Again, I'm interested in other peoples views. I'll make my own mind up when the time comes.

This is just a "General automotive discussion".

Though I did correctly guess you would be the first to respond :)

Edited by ActionDan

Honestly 34's price is all for the name. Realistically you can get much better cars. Also for the current market i'd buy a 32 over a 33.

But at the end of the day, i could have bought a better car then my gtr. But i didn't because i wanted a gtr.

for 60k you could get a 2015 STI... a 2015/16 golf R... as mentioned an evo... We could keep naming them tbh

Personally id rather spend the 30k car and put the rest on the house... ROI on anything above the 30k mark for me doesn't make sense. Especially for a weekend/track car.

  • Like 1

I agree re 34s, though I prefer the 33 over the 32, but much of a muchness in terms of price for a decent one.

My finances are in order otherwise I wouldn't be buying a "toy" car, but still, hvbing that 20-30k left over because I bought a 33 certainly seems appealing.

STI.... no.

You ended up with a 32?

I think you get me wrong. I love the evo x and I like the '15 wrx more.

It's just as though you think your answers will be answered from the internet but in reality you need to go drive them as your taste/style, shit a million things else is different to the other person.

I think you get me wrong. I love the evo x and I like the '15 wrx more.

It's just as though you think your answers will be answered from the internet but in reality you need to go drive them as your taste/style, shit a million things else is different to the other person.

If I was in Melbourne it would be that simple...

I'm putting some time aside soon to get down there and test drive various cars back to back.

Value for money, reliability, power to weight. There are plenty of cars out there these days that will beat a GTR but they're still no GTR.

I agree with this sentiment but am not even sure I know what it means anymore. When I had my GT-R, everything else was "good, but no GT-R".

Is it just a badge?

If I had my time again and $50K sitting around I would probably buy a really clean 33 for around $30 and pump $20K into it.

A dirty big single would be at the top of my list.

I agree re 34s, though I prefer the 33 over the 32, but much of a muchness in terms of price for a decent one.

My finances are in order otherwise I wouldn't be buying a "toy" car, but still, hvbing that 20-30k left over because I bought a 33 certainly seems appealing.

STI.... no.

You ended up with a 32?

Only reason i say 32 over a 33 atm is the ROI, 32's are going up and up in price. Buy it, keep it for a few years, you may even break even/make moneys.

If I was in Melbourne it would be that simple...

I'm putting some time aside soon to get down there and test drive various cars back to back.

I agree with this sentiment but am not even sure I know what it means anymore. When I had my GT-R, everything else was "good, but no GT-R".

Is it just a badge?

at the end of the day yes it is just a badge. They were great cars... 20 od years ago.

They are old now and really starting to show their age.

I agree with this sentiment but am not even sure I know what it means anymore. When I had my GT-R, everything else was "good, but no GT-R".

Is it just a badge?

I know how you feel, I have a mate that has just completed an LS1 S14 build which is farking awesome. It's just as fast as my car, sounds awesome, is clean and reliable but at the end of the day I still love jumping in the GTR and hearing it scream.

at the end of the day yes it is just a badge. They were great cars... 20 od years ago.

They are old now and really starting to show their age.

I think this is part of my issue these days too. They seem so old.

I know how you feel, I have a mate that has just completed an LS1 S14 build which is farking awesome. It's just as fast as my car, sounds awesome, is clean and reliable but at the end of the day I still love jumping in the GTR and hearing it scream.

Been thinking about this for my track car...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...