Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i do agree with you with some points made gtsboy but im not worried about being defected by police over a turbo timer, even the first mod to your car is consinded a defect (exhaust, pod) lets be real here we have a shit load more obvious things that are defectable. a turbo timer is more of a convience then anything and almost always on every import even through compliance will be left on, (also one of the first ricers mod)

they also are handy these days displaying more ecu sensors such as volts, boost pressure, etc.

yeah damage to the engine may not be noticable and the turbo timer may be just a gimic but im always quiet firm on letting the car warm right up to operating temp and also cooling it down to idle temp. 90 seconds will suit most applications if you have to wait longer for cooling your temps are getting to high and maybe time to look into a oil cooler.

speaking about coming flat out into your driveway, has anyone had any real time experience with d jetro's and where the map pressure line should be tee'd off from or is it worth drilling into the inlet manifold itself?

also; going to install my tomei fuel pump next weekend, will this be okay on my tame set up (stock ecu) up untill the tune with it done with the rewire upgrade? (straight to battery).

speaking about coming flat out into your driveway, has anyone had any real time experience with d jetro's and where the map pressure line should be tee'd off from or is it worth drilling into the inlet manifold itself?

also; going to install my tomei fuel pump next weekend, will this be okay on my tame set up (stock ecu) up untill the tune with it done with the rewire upgrade? (straight to battery).

Check on the UK forum. I believe there is a pretty in depth thread about this. Conclusion was drill the runners out in 3 and 4. Nothing really worked 100% otherwise.

speaking about coming flat out into your driveway, has anyone had any real time experience with d jetro's and where the map pressure line should be tee'd off from or is it worth drilling into the inlet manifold itself?

also; going to install my tomei fuel pump next weekend, will this be okay on my tame set up (stock ecu) up untill the tune with it done with the rewire upgrade? (straight to battery).

JEM teed my MAP into the FPR line - Guess it works and is tried and tested.

thinking of having a line from the barb coming off the intake manifold on runner 6 for the stock gauge map pressure sensor so it gets 100% pressure to the apexi/denso sensor and teeing off a different line for the stock sensor as it is not as important.

for my air intake sensor i was just having a look at the manifold and there is no room on the underside behind the throttle body so i was thinking maybe on the underside of the stock crossover pipe (L pipe) as it is also said to use intercooler piping and this pipe is a lot thicker and less prone to heat soak.

going to install the pfc myself, look out!

if your reading please send through your thoughts as i will be attempting on the weekend and tips and tricks would be helpful!

also am aware of the half hour idle learn

- 10 mins start and idle

- next 10 mins add air conditioner

- next 10 mins add demisters

thanks.

just had a thought, the cross over pipe is still ralatively close to the head of the engine and almost over the exhaust mani/turbo, might just make a bung into the black stock intercooler pipe near the induction filter. after all it's just a sensor that requires temp at it's final state (temp) before entering the chamber's.... a heat soaked sensor is probably not affected but it is a concern as made by a few forums/sites i have been over.

even apexi suggest intake manifold is where it should be placed, the rb26 has one in the intake mani...

surely nissan and apexi know a touch more!

I installed my air intake temp sensor on the rear of the crossover pipe just before the throttle body. There is a section which can be filed flat and then drilled and tapped. Its a very clean install. I was using a standard bosch? temp sensor.

To be useful for actual ECU control/tuning the air temp sensor must have a light element that reacts quickly. The stock type found in the plenum of RB26s is NOT that type and it is not useful. In fact the Nissan ECU doesn't really use it for that purpose at all.

As to where you put it.....it hardly matters whether it is in the cross-over or the plenum. It will actually be a little better just before the TB in the crossover because all the airflow will be going past it, increasing the heat transfer rate too and from it and making it respond faster.

If it is in the air flow, and is small and light, it won't "heat soak", unless the air in the pipe is heat soaked. In which case it will be reading the air temp which is what you want anyway.

yeah the kit includes a mazda sensor that is quick reacting so that all seems fine and i'd rather go into one of the pipes as they would be more easily to replace if something goes wrong! looks like i will follow your path zoomzoom, was your tuner happy with the placement of it?

had a talk to nengun today they said the power fc is a er34 pfc through and through not even a rb26 reflashed model so thats a bit warming but still won't be data init'ing haha.

is anyone able to give me injector corrections and latency for my new 570cc injectors?

this is what i have come up with.

380(stock neo)/570 = .6666.... × 100 = 66/67% injector correction.

0.890ms @ 13.8v latency. (i have been sent this numbers from where i purchased as a rough guess)

i have to travel roughly 400km to get a tune and i'm aware no positive pressure or load on the engine to prevent damage due to a.f.r's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
×
×
  • Create New...