Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ROBO you got it in one its an upgrade clutch kit for the auto good for around 230-250rwkw

i blew my last auto 6 months after i bought the car, well i didn't blow just wore out the top two gear clutches, happens with auto once ya starting putting more power through it, the box gets weaker, so when i put a new gearbox in i replaced the clutches

i was gonna change to manual, but was $3500 was the best quote at the time found it for $2500 now, but i put another auto in and it cost me around $900 with everything thats including buying the box so i thought that was the best option, 2nd gear is wicked now under full throttle i pull it side ways for a good 1-2 secs if i don't change properly IE i drive it like a manual thats just me

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You won't get much with a cam gear, maybe 5rwkw!!  I hardly could pick the difference.
I noticed a difference! At the drags im breaking traction in the top of first gear when I launch which I wasn't before the Ex Cam Gear. I'm over it now tho and wanting that next mod :)

A cam gear will cost you about ~$160-180 delivered from Nengun/Greenline. Along with about 1.5hrs of workshop time and its a great cheap mod for less than $300.

Take a look:

cam-ba.jpg

i noticed the grunt increased mid-range and it seemed to have a lot more go.. its worthwhile doing.. and for the price especially. Seemed to idle a bit rougher after that, but that may have been the new tune. Unfortunately I didn't get a dyno read out to quantify anything in any proper terms.

I'm over it now tho and wanting that next mod

hahaa.. its a bit like that.. i got over the whole car, sold it, and now to build a fast one :)

obviously not anything ground breaking, but I just got my PowerFC installed and tuned and i am making 200 at the wheels at 1 bar - this is with 3" turbo back exhaust, ebc, FMIC, air POD and PowerFC. Injectors will be at limit now, so next up for engine stuff will be turbo+injectors+cam gear/shafts.

Its good insurance at anything around 200rwkw to replace the std factory pump (it could be getting a bit tired) and also to add a rising rate regulator to screw a few more kw out of the std injectors.

Remember if only one injector is struggling, (and this may not show up on your dyno analysis) and you are too close to 100% duty cycle, it could easily cost you an engine rebuild.

Hey there

Ive got an auto 96 series II that registered 273.6hp(203rwKw) at 11psi on shout-out mode

probably done more mods than some, cause I dont want to change the turbo or standard ECU

Trust MX cat-back

SS highflow cat

RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe

Apexi filter

TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit

SAFC-II

Greddy Profec B EBC

HKS 256 exhaust cam with cam gears

Bosch 910 external pump mounted inline without surge tank and malapassi FPR waiting to go in

Apexi boost gauge and TOYO RA-1 as well to complete the list

probably will buy a manifold, dump, and intake pipe later and see how much more power the standard turbo can make

good luck with your car though

Hey there

Ive got an auto 96 series II that registered 273.6hp(203rwKw) at 11psi on shout-out mode

probably done more mods than some, cause I dont want to change the turbo or standard ECU

Trust MX cat-back

SS highflow cat

RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe

Apexi filter

TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit

SAFC-II

Greddy Profec B EBC

HKS 256 exhaust cam with cam gears

Bosch 910 external pump mounted inline without surge tank and malapassi FPR waiting to go in

Apexi boost gauge and TOYO RA-1 as well to complete the list

probably will buy a manifold, dump, and intake pipe later and see how much more power the standard turbo can make

good luck with your car though

That's a very interesting approach, it proves that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Do you have progressive dyno results that you can post? I would really like to understand what makes up the increases. :cheers:

sorry SK, only did one dyno so far and I sorta put everything in reverse order,

EBC first, then SAFC, then FMIC, exhaust and cam last before finally going on dyno

from what I can tell the FMIC felt to make the most difference. I'll post my dyno sheet up soon.

Dont have the funds to change ECU or turbo so I thought I'll do everything else and see whats the maximum safe limit of the standard turbo

Im wondering about the auto trans though, should I start worrying about it?

To answer the questions about the unichip. I have one of these on my manual GTST and they work great. I haven't had any issues with it and I'm making 190RWK at 14psi with the standard turbo. I don't understand why you were told that u couldn't run an EBC with the unichip because that isn't true. I'm running a turbosmart E-boost. The unichip can control the boost if you want it to, however it should only be an option so you should be able to retain the Blitz EBC that you already have installed.

I'm not sure if you can get one for an auto though.....

well every one i have come to a bit of a stop in reaching 200rwkw i took my car along to a dyno day on saturday and it start to ping at 170kw at 6200 rpm boosted at 11psi. now could someone please tell me what this could be could it be injectors and fuel pump or more as yous all know its auto so its a bit hard to get a good ecu. so now i have the problem finding out what it could be so if any of yous have had this problem please let me know what yous have done to fix it well thanks for all ya help and i soon hope to reach 200rwkws after this minor hold up !

well every one i have come to a bit of a stop in reaching 200rwkw i took my car along to a dyno day on saturday and it start to ping at 170kw at 6200 rpm boosted at 11psi. now could someone please tell me what this could be could it be injectors and fuel pump or more as yous all know its auto so its a bit hard to get a good ecu. so now i have the problem finding out what it could be so if any of yous have had this problem please let me know what yous have done to fix it well thanks for all ya help and i soon hope to reach 200rwkws after this minor hold up !

Usually this is ignition timing related, but it is easy to tell if it was fuel related via the A/F ratios. If it was going lean then it will detonate. So, did you get an A/F ratio printout from the dyno day? If you did, it will be easy to tell whether it was ignition of fuel. :D

nah didn't get any a/f readings on the print out because it was power runs only i might take it back this week and get it dynoed the other time i had it dynoed it was on 12.5 the whole way so i dunno if it could changed i aint sure so i will take it and see if its not the a/f how can i fix this ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...