Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys what im after is the wheel that mounts to the back of the ross balancer, the balancer is about a year old and i have attached a picture. On the gold coast but will pay shipping.

Thanks

post-7636-0-51732000-1446442276_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460738-chopper-wheel-for-ross-balancer/
Share on other sites

Spoke to ross already, $340 plus postage which made me fuxking lol, thought id check here before i got something made

Cheers

Yea they re a rip, unfortunately unless you have the program and a water jet cutter/other machining equipment it will cost you more to pay someone to make it

If you get something made up, remember it needs to have the missing teeth for reference, I have 280-290 missing from memory

Mine is a 36 - 2 wheel, also you need to make sure that the wheel is balanced and not too thick as it will foul on the front timing cover

I used 6mm but I put mine on an ATI balancer but measure your own

Are you using a Ross trigger kit? Ensure the wheel runs directly over the sensors, around 2 mm spacing mine is from memory.. Too close or too far and it will not work properly.

It's a big job man

  • Like 1

If you get something made up, remember it needs to have the missing teeth for reference, I have 280-290 missing from memory

Mine is a 36 - 2 wheel, also you need to make sure that the wheel is balanced and not too thick as it will foul on the front timing cover

I used 6mm but I put mine on an ATI balancer but measure your own

Are you using a Ross trigger kit? Ensure the wheel runs directly over the sensors, around 2 mm spacing mine is from memory.. Too close or too far and it will not work properly.

It's a big job man

Im running a platinum pro so i can only run 24 + 1, using a murrayis kit and the cam side is already fitted with 1gt101 just need to remove the balancer and fit a wheel, the ross wheel doesn't have a missing tooth And lots of kits people have made or used dont have them missing either... not to sure if there is any problem with that?

post-7636-0-23717300-1446498758_thumb.png

I dunno man, my tuner said that's how it needed to be made for me link G4 so that's how I made it. My old Ross had a couple of missing teeth but no it doesn't necessarily need to have teeth missing

I can only assume that those setups would get engine position from the CAS at start up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...