Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to upgrade my Brakes. K-Sport Front, and stock rear.

My K-sports haven't had a hiccup yet, but they are not balanced well with my rear. I've been doing alot more track days, and between my tires getting loose, and the sketchy rear swaying, I've decided to look at upgrades. I am just starting to get into understanding brake balancing, and design, so please forgive my ignorance.

First choice would be to get a decent set of rear brakes (AP or Brembo), and upgrade the fronts at a later date.

Option 2 would be to go to the AP full front and rear.

Option 3 is Brembo GT front and rear

Option 4 is R35

In regards to the AP kits, the larger diameter rotor option is cheaper, and the smaller, but thicker rotor is more expensive. Is this the same kit, just the thicker rotor is more expensive? My obvious reaction would be that the larger diameter has more braking power.

The brembo kits have the same size rotors, but the prices are different. I cant seem to find out why.

In regards to the R35, how would the above compare?

And other than the price of the brackets, why hasn't it become more popular on R32-33-34?

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461195-brake-kit-options-r33-brembo-ap-r35/
Share on other sites

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.

Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.

Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.

Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.

Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

  • Like 1

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Don't forget E=mc2

or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .

My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

Bob, I have a GTR33, Single Precision 6466, 544kw to the wheels on E85. So stopping on the street is just as important as stopping on the track. The rears are the stock brembos.

A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.

Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.

Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.

Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.

Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Thanks Peter,

I've been searching threads, and most of them have been hijacked or whored out, making it tough to sort out the useful information. My car is full interior, no roll cage, no CF parts to lighten it up.

R35 Brakes are on the Z-Tune Clubman, and seems to work well, but is the second most expensive option (Brembo GT-R series are $$$$).

Edited by sixmassive

What about the alcon kits a load of guys were getting from jdl in the UK a while back, was a decent thread on them here. Sounded like a good option so might be worth a search.

Sent Alcon a message a bit ago. For Another 200 bucks and i could have a Brembo kit, or save 200 and have an AP kit.

Also send wilwood a message.

Maybe check out the Alpha Omega Racing brake kits.

I saw a thread about them converting evo calipers, but i skimmed over it. I'll give it a closer read in a sec.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Don't forget E=mc2

or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .

My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

Correct but covered my arse with the highlighted part you missed....speed for speed :)

If the speeds at application are identical, vehicle mass is the issue. (and Visa-versa)

  • Like 1

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

You could get some 330mm for the rear: http://ksportusa.com/b2c/proddetail.php?prod=BKNS170-433SO

Just get some decent pads.

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

I have the same issue with mine and I'm guessing it's because I only have Bendix generals in the rear. I'm going to swap to a more aggressive pad when they're due and see if that helps.

First things first. What shocks and spring rates are you running? What tyres brand and sizes are you running? What wheel alignment are you bashing around the track on? What ride heights front and rear are you running Lastly what pads are you running front and rear?

If you are trying to get a brake setup that ensure the car is settled under big stops then its best to make sure you are looking at the right thing. 7 times out of 10 if you want to shorten braking distances or improve braking stability it will be tyres and suspension.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...