Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I recently got my R34 25GT Coupe and want to change the exhaust so I can make it louder but not too loud so it sounds off putting.

I'm a P Plater in Victoria, I hear I can only change the rear piping after the cat for it to be legal.

I'm not too sure what to look for exactly, been looking around for days with little luck, so can someone please point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Jesse

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461200-na-r34-coupe/
Share on other sites

Hi, and welcome to SAU, the best place in the world for all things Skyline.

According to the Victorian "P" Plate laws, any vehicle (Even Mum's Camry) can be considered prohibited if it: "has an engine that has been modified to increase the vehicle's performance (other than a modification made by the manufacturer in the course of the manufacture of the vehicle"

This means that exhaust mods are basically off the table for P Platers, as even a cat back, like you mentioned could theoretically give performance gains. Still, many do it anyway. (A cat-back on an N/A would give very small, even possibly non-existent gains)

If you still want to do this, try to be a bit stealthy about it. (An R34 with P Plates on it is already a cop magnet, regardless of modification level)

I personally suggest ringing up or emailing your local exhaust shop, and getting a quote for something made up and installed, as most popular brand made bolt on systems systems are for the GTT (Turbocharged) model.

Completely avoid the cannon, and try to stick to the stock twin tip look, to avoid attention from anyone unwanted.

Maybe look into getting an X-Force Varex muffler, which allows the volume to be controlled if you want to keep quiet if need be, to avoid unwanted attention.

The RB25 sound can actually be quite nice, if done properly.

Good luck with your R34.

Edited by Burger
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461200-na-r34-coupe/#findComment-7642192
Share on other sites

Thanks Burger, I'll have a look.

To get a good sound, do you reckon I should look out for a muffler with a 2.5" inlet and a 3" outlet?

I found a single tip and double tip that look alright but not entirely sure what I should look for when referring to sizing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461200-na-r34-coupe/#findComment-7642214
Share on other sites

Awesome. How much all up - $550? It's the first mod I did on my N/A back in the day. Very handy passing cops, going through RBT's, driving inlaws, being taxi boyfriend, talking, etc.

With mine, adding a pod makes a difference to the exhaust sound. better inhale = better exhale. or maybe a high flow filter will work on your airbox. I never tried it though.

Both is illegal here in NSW too. I got away with it for 3 years and I got defected for Pod filter. They said nothing about the exhaust. Now using the airbox since that day and my GF driving it now.

Just don't spend anything else until you get turbo skyline, you'll need the money, trust me! been there done that! :P

Goood luck

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461200-na-r34-coupe/#findComment-7646885
Share on other sites

Yeah it was around 700 really, paid a bit extra to get it done properly considering I went to a few places that said they couldn't do the job.

I'd love the turbo but I'm not sure if I'd be able to make the extra money for when I get off my p plates.

Would love a garage too, less likely to be keyed!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461200-na-r34-coupe/#findComment-7646948
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...