Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a R31 skyline with the RB30 and was woundering if it is possible to turbo it?? i.e can you use the intake and exhaust manifold and turbo off the RB30DET and pistons to drop the compression and run some sort of after market or even the RB30DET stock computer? Or is this just a stupid question and should i just go for a conversion??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46129-turboing-a-rb30/
Share on other sites

RB30DET doesn't exist as an actual production motor... But what you *can* do is swap some parts off an rb30ET (the VL turbo engine) to give you a hybrid of sorts. You don't even have to swap the pistons with good tuning and sticking with low boost.

Its worthwhile on a budget if you know your engine is still in good condition.

Otherwise things like the RB20DET, RB25DE or RB25DET bolt fit in fine, however using the gearbox off one the latter two requires some slight mods (tailshaft and mounting)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46129-turboing-a-rb30/#findComment-937490
Share on other sites

thanks for the reply,

any of the VL turbo turbo's would be pretty rooted by now so what is a good alternative to bolt on to the VL turbo exhaust manifold or should i look at a custom maniflod? where is a good place to source the parts? Would a stock VL computer plug in and be a good option or should i just get an aftermarket one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46129-turboing-a-rb30/#findComment-937574
Share on other sites

Otherwise things like the RB20DET, RB25DE or RB25DET bolt fit in fine

RB20 galleries don't line up, (so i'm told) if you want to do a DOHC conversion, you need to use the 25 or 26 head.

All the information that you need on turbocharging an NA RB30 can be found here:

click me!

You will find a list of all the parts you need in there as well, and a couple of tutorials.

You can use the VLT computer, but it's not a straight swap, you have to wire the ecu so that the R31 fuel pump will work.

As far as all VLT parts being "rooted" you will find that all the ones that are still around have been looked after.

All the thrashed ones went to turbo heaven a long time ago :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46129-turboing-a-rb30/#findComment-937721
Share on other sites

RB20 galleries don't line up, (so i'm told) if you want to do a DOHC conversion, you need to use the 25 or 26 head.

I was talking in no speak english good if he didn't want to turbo the existing engine.. a straight swap with one of the RB2x's was the other option :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46129-turboing-a-rb30/#findComment-937746
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...