Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my standard clutch finally gave up so purchased a lightened flywheel and a 6 puck clutch kit. Installed it all last weekend, the only thing not replaced is the bush inside the crank as I was running out of time. Everything has been bolted up correctly, surfaces checked, there was a little bit of machining material left on flywheel dowels but cleaned it all up so the pressure plate definitely sat flush. Gearbox was supported the whole time so clutch shouldn't have bent, there's no judder/shudder and car drives fine.

Been driving the car easily to get everything to bed in so haven't pushed it yet but have noticed that more vibrations are coming through the car, especially at around 4k rpm mark where it starts to gets a bit crazy.

I have solid mounts for the gearbox and in the subframe, a bit more noise came through but no biggie as I've been using them for over a year.

At first I though it could be the driveshaft being unbalanced but it also happens in neutral at around 4k rpm there a big vibration starts coming through the car, which keeps increasing as the revs go up. The vibration is of high frequency, as if something is out of balance slightly.

I can't feel this vibrations on the clutch nor through the shifter.

Anyone experienced something similar after a clutch job? Any tips of pin pointing the location of this vibration?

Edited by ErOR

Did you mark the driveshaft flanges before you separated them, then put them back at the same orientation? If not, try disconnecting, turn through 90 degress, then reconnect.

Did you mark the driveshaft flanges before you separated them, then put them back at the same orientation? If not, try disconnecting, turn through 90 degress, then reconnect.

Agreed, try this first something about them being balanced. I put an exedy kit in my car and don't have an issue (flywheel and cushioned clutch plate)

The clutch is from a reputable store in NZ, not actually sure on the brand or where it came from. The gear is definitely of high quality, could be a bad batch. Will go see the guys there today and have a chat about it.

No I didn't mark the driveshaft flanges but remember this vibration is happening in neutral, driveshaft shouldn't have anything to do with this vibration as far as I know.

I'm leaning more towards pressure plate cast being out of balance or something similar.

So your saying a drive shaft that is physically connected to the diff and wheels doesn't spin in neutral?

Check again young grass hopper [emoji106]

Do these vibrations come if the car is sitting still and you rev to 4K as you mentioned that's when it's worse?

Edited by Gcjosh

So your saying a drive shaft that is physically connected to the diff and wheels doesn't spin in neutral?

Check again young grass hopper [emoji106]

Do these vibrations come if the car is sitting still and you rev to 4K as you mentioned that's when it's worse?

Only the engine, flywheel and pressure plate spin when in neutral. Clutch plate, input shaft, driveshaft etc are still.

Sorry OP - I didnt read carefully enough and missed it was in neutral. So agree it sounds like out of balance flywheel or pressure plate.

If it happens when your stationary test it with the clutch pedal in and out, if its there in both situations id be getting the flywheel and pressure plate checked for balance.....

  • 1 month later...

After the 6 puk melted to the flywheel I got the flywheel and pressure plate balanced and all the vibrations are gone now.

Lessons learned, experience gained...

Also switched from ceramic to kevlar and it's so much nicer to drive around streets, 6 puk ceramic can stay for the track.

Edited by ErOR
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...