Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys having trouble with my R33 series 1 skyline. Since replacing all heater hoses and fuel hoses in the engine bay the bloody thing wont run .

Since it has been down i have changed the cat to a 100cell 5" body with 3" flanges , fitted a new optima battery and It had a safc which i removed, i did reset the ecu while battery was out.

I have tested the following:

Cas and injectors

Has a brand new walbro fuel pump hard wired with a relay

New Coil packs and spark plugs gapped at 1.1mm and tested spark.

It will run and idle but puffs a bit of black smoke with Afm and ecu coolant temp sensor disconnected, it will run for approx 3-5min before cutting off.

Replaced the Ecu coolant temp sensor and will kick and start with Afm connected but will die after 15 seconds or so.

Boost leak checked.

When slowly accelerating it seems to miss and splutter and if continued will shut off even with Afm connected and wont even make boost.

Has not been comp tested yet.

Anything else to look before i tow it to the mechanics.

Located in Port Macquarie.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461823-rb25det-kicks-but-wont-run/
Share on other sites

So you went back to stock by removing the SAFC.

Did you reconnect everything back to stock after removing it?

So whats left thats modded and not original in the car that is connected to fueling and reading air flow?

Sounds like its running pig rich....

Is it possible that you have mixed up the fuel hoses?

Thought this, not the case though it idles for 3/5mins in limp mode without afm and ecu temp sensor before i think the ecu shuts the car down.

So you went back to stock by removing the SAFC.

Did you reconnect everything back to stock after removing it?

So whats left thats modded and not original in the car that is connected to fueling and reading air flow?

Sounds like its running pig rich....

Yeah went back to stock and just followed the tutorial on install just in reverse, i have had the car running without it previously before changing the hoses etc.

The fuel pump is modded walbro 255, afm is factory have a z32 but didnt really want to splice in as i have a adaptronic with map that will be going in soon.

Im thinking timing and possibly ecu?

Why was there a SAFC - do you have upgraded parts? Correct coils (not S2 coils)? Can you swap out the AFM with a known good one? Plug ok? Changed engine bay fuel filter?

Safc was installed when i purchased the car . Coil packs are S1 have two sets bought a 2nd to test with. Other then a front mount thats the only upgraded parts other then those mentioned above. Stock turbo & injectors , Did have a bleed valve running 10 psi with the safc and have put a greddy boost controller on it and tested with both while the engine was running no issue previously making boost.

Changed the fuel filter when the hoses were done.

Edited by Pauly The R33

Is the fuel pump running, can you hear it prime when you turn the key? Does it sound right/ Sounds like a fuel starvation thing, fuel filter, regulator, pump thing to me??

Check you have fuel getting to the motor.

Is the fuel pump running, can you hear it prime when you turn the key? Does it sound right/ Sounds like a fuel starvation thing, fuel filter, regulator, pump thing to me??

Check you have fuel getting to the motor.

Fuel pump primes . heaps of pressure actual reason i replaced the hose is because the were starting to leak due to the new pump .

Fuel filter is replaced , have not tested reg but shouldn't the car not run with ecu sensor and afm disconnected.

Afm for ecu air flow & ecu coolant sensor for fuel injection lead me to think it was ecu after getting a new sensor. Put the esel15 in and was doing the same thing and it runs a map instead of afm to rule the afm out.

If you hook it up the wrong way it will still get fuel but not enough. Not having a go but plenty of people have hooked the lines up the wrong way.

All good man i know what im looking at but thanks anyway. Also the fuel filter does have an arrow pointing out which way it flows aswell.

It's more about putting fuel in wrong end of the rail that gets people.

Ok sweet lets establish that the fuel system is correct and we have fuel to the cyclinders with spark. It will run without the Afm And ecu coolant sensor but not with them. Anyone had any experience with an issue such as this?

If it runs without the coolant sensor then you need a new one. If you unplug the coolant sensor the ecu provides a start-up map to get you going.

But as above try plugging the safc back in and see what happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...