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Replacing Power Steering Cooling Loop With A Core In R34 Gtt?

V28VX37

By V28VX37,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Hi all,

I am thinking of getting some additional power steering cooling for the track and wondering what the easiest way to do this might be.

One idea I have is replacing the OEM power steering cooling loop behind the RH fog light with a leftover GTT Tiptronic auto trans cooler – would this work?

23348829263_08652600c1.jpg

9871955203_1d56b6789e_z.jpg

Cheers guys

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Any thoughts, can this be done?

Also how far back does the stock loop hard line go and is there any harm in replacing the remainder with standard fuel hose or equivalent (non braided)?

I'm assuming PS fluid pressure is not super high.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Ok I've done this today, inspired by this writeup: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-power-steering-oil-cooler/

Couple of mishaps and questions:

  1. I didn't remember to rinse the old auto cooler, however it was empty when installed, with just some small traces of ATF inside. I figured that given ATF and PS fluid are quite similar this shouldn't be issue hopefully?
  2. I also didn't fill the cooler with PS fluid once installed, doh. I've started and moved the car but the steering is super jerky and the PS pump runs noisy so it must be all the air in the system. Hope I didn't break anything..

Anyway what's the best way to fully bleed the PS circuit?

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Found this in another thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199101-bleeding-power-steering/?p=3554598

Edit;
I drained my fluid by undoing one of the pipes from the pump to the rack, at the rack and let it drain out (took quite a while). I wouldnt run the engine while draining the system, but maybe i'm just being paranoid.

For bleeding the workshop manual says something like;
-Top up the fluid
-With the engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue turning back and forth until you stop seeing bubbles. Might as well lift the front wheels off the ground first to make it easy.
-Top up fluid if required
-start the motor, then repeat turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue until you stop seeing bubbles

Then your done. I did this today. My friend looked for bubbles during the last step, but didnt see any. The steering is fine.

I've followed that and it's better but there's still a very noticeable shudder when going slow/stationary, especially when turning right...

The rack was already leaking before but I think I may have just expired it for good:

Right side – the boot is split too:

23800577799_24f06e6d97.jpg

Left side:

23540199294_7bbbecac15.jpg

What do you guys reckon? Time to go shopping for a new rack?

...

Also here's some photos of the install – using R34 GTT auto trans cooler as power steering cooler in the RH guard:

23800685979_b55e6efb0f.jpg

23800684519_d21df57144.jpg

24060434862_2227508f3f.jpg

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V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

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Yet another question: the factory power steering hose is 10mm ID whereas the auto trans cooler hose is 8mm ID. The auto trans hard lines that I reused to run under the chassis rail are similarly thinner.

Does this affect the operation of the power steering circuit e.g. by making the pump run harder? Is this an issue?

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