Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Won't Turn Off After Battery Went Flat And Jump Started It

dan.1337

By dan.1337,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
Posted

I left an interior light on in my R33 which unfortunately drained my month old battery completely. I've jump started it a hundred times before on my old battery as it died every few days, but this time I was careless and hooked up the wrong cables on the jump pack (black-red, red-black instead of black-black, red-red).

I recognised this error after my jump pack started beeping at me, so I swapped the cables around, jump started it, and took it for a drive.

When I turned it off, the car just kept running. All electronics and the turbo timer was shut off but the engine continued to run. Since then, I've had to use my fuel pump kill switch to turn my car off.

I checked all my fuses (bonnet, cabin, boot) and none appear to be blown. Something else I've noticed is that my central locking using my remote still works, but the immobiliser "beep" doesn't sound anymore when I lock and unlock my car.

I disconnected the battery for an hour yesterday but it didn't seem to help, so I pulled the battery out completely and have put it on a charger to pump it right up.
Do you guys have any ideas my engine might not be switching off when I turn the rest of the car off?
Unfortunately Google and search hasn't helped much this time around.
dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No 1 ditch the turbo timer.

Been meaning to do that since I bought the car but haven't got around to it. It's always been set to 0 seconds so the car switches itself off straight away anyway.

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ECU issue is my guess. When you disconnected the battery did you hit the brakes and/or turn the headlights on? Just to absolutely drain the system.

Potentially an ECU issue, but the engine still runs like usual when it's on?

I didn't hit the brakes or anything. It was completely drained when I got to it as it was just the little reading light on.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

When you disconnected the battery I meant - was it completely drained when you disconnected.

Anyway the spark from connecting jumper leads can be damaging to ECU's. You may have to source another one if its standard, if its aftermarket [apexi, haltech,link etc] then they may be able to repair it, not sure.

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When you disconnected the battery I meant - was it completely drained when you disconnected.

Anyway the spark from connecting jumper leads can be damaging to ECU's. You may have to source another one if its standard, if its aftermarket [apexi, haltech,link etc] then they may be able to repair it, not sure.

In that case, I didn't pump the brakes or turn on any lights. I have pulled the battery out of the car completely since then to put it on a charger though, so it should be well and truly dead by now.

Because I used a jump pack there was no spark. I connected the leads then turned the pack to "on", then turned it off after it started beeping because the leads were crossed.

I have a PFC and will get my mechanic to check it out if I can't find the cause myself.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Why do guesswork?

Remove the turbo timer first and then see how she goes.

If it's any decent brand it will have a patch harness that simply plugs/unplugs into the stock harness, 5 seconds work.

After that I'd check the ECCS and IGN relays. (both beside the ECU)

But get rid of the timer before you start worrying about a fried ECU.

  • Like 1
dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why do guesswork?

Remove the turbo timer first and then see how she goes.

If it's any decent brand it will have a patch harness that simply plugs/unplugs into the stock harness, 5 seconds work.

After that I'd check the ECCS and IGN relays. (both beside the ECU)

But get rid of the timer before you start worrying about a fried ECU.

Great, thanks for this. It's a branded turbo timer (Apexi from memory) so I'll try the above tonight.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Why do guesswork?

Remove the turbo timer first and then see how she goes.

If it's any decent brand it will have a patch harness that simply plugs/unplugs into the stock harness, 5 seconds work.

After that I'd check the ECCS and IGN relays. (both beside the ECU)

But get rid of the timer before you start worrying about a fried ECU.

Yeah exactly, it will almost certainly be directly unplugable, just follow the large wires and plug from the back of the ignition key. All it would take is something minor in that not being protected by a fuse to melt to open and cause this.

If not, I'd check (ie swap) the ECCS relay before worrying too much about the ECU having an issue, it might also have failed to always on

dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I'd been meaning to pull out the turbo timer for a long time and this was a better time than ever to do it. Was piss easy (not sure why I didn't try earlier), and now everything is rosy again.

Car turns right off and the immobiliser is back online.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...