Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Was Recently Stolen And Recovered, Looking For A Mechanic.


Recommended Posts

My R34 was stolen tuesday morning around 3am, the car was found this morning around 9:30am. I'm unsure of the extent of the damage but i know for certain the left hand side window is broken.

I'm looking for a mechanic i can get the car towed straight to once the police are done with it to give the car a good look over and repair what damage has been done such as the window etc.

I work full time so i don't really have the spare time to diagnose and fix the problems myself and need the car running as soon as possible.

I live in Narre Warren south, so somewhere close by would be fantastic so it doesn't cost me a fortune to have it towed. I only recently moved to Melbourne so I'm not familiar with what workshops are around.

thank you!

Depends on the damage mate. If there's panel damage, most panel shops will be able to sort out windows/locks/etc for you. Police Rd panels have been helpful in the past for me, and DT panels in Springvale are certainly great for paint and panelbeating.

If the problem is mechanical, I only ever see one bloke - Dan from Springy motors. He's usually pretty busy but he knows imports inside and out. His new number is (03) 9546 9400

  • Like 1

Sorry to hear about the news, was is stolen at Narre Warren South? If you've seen a BSB 34 thats mine as I visit my parents. Its usually a very family oriented area and I've never herd of things like this.

Jake is right about the people to call - im currently in talks with Van from DT Panels for some side skirt and rear pod fitments.

I'll keep a eye for you man! haha

yeah, the street i live on is quite a nice street as well. i was shocked it happened myself in a area i felt pretty secure in.

my car was actually used in a robbery tuesday night so by the sounds of it the guys who stole my car were looking for a getaway vehicle. I think I'm lucky the car didn't end up burned out in a ditch somewhere.

thanks heaps guys.

Unfortunately mate there are dickheads everywhere who want to take something that they haven't earned. Just get good insurance and a good immobiliser/alarm. I use the top-end Viper alarm in my car and have no complaints so far. It pages my remote fob if someone gets in to my car which gives me enough time to find the nearest blunt object and get myself into a killing mood.

  • Like 1

Unfortunately mate there are dickheads everywhere who want to take something that they haven't earned. Just get good insurance and a good immobiliser/alarm. I use the top-end Viper alarm in my car and have no complaints so far. It pages my remote fob if someone gets in to my car which gives me enough time to find the nearest blunt object and get myself into a killing mood.

I have one of these too. Only problem is I've nearly killed my cat a few times[emoji38]

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Sorry to hear about you 34 but ibsay this to every skyline owner or import owner. First mod is a good 3 point black wireing immoboliser alarm system as lots of imports get stolen as some prolly come here as stolen recoveries etc etc. Any mechanicle stuff i reccomend racepace but prolly to far from you

DT panels and quality should never be used within the same sentence

Bad experience? I was considering taking my shitty 33 gtst there for a few minor repairs as most of the cars I have seen come out of there seem to have been done well. Pm me if you prefer.

Took my STi there years ago. Can I say shrinkage...

Anyway look at the general type of customers and cars they have - I'd say most go there because they want a cheap job and they do a half decent job (I'm being polite) definitely not quality.

Can't comment on your experience Darren, but I agree from what I've seen.

I know Vu's said before that he paints to a scale...in that if a customer wants a $3000 job he'll do it for that, but it will look like a 3k job. If they're willing to pay 10k for a showroom auto show finish then that's what they'll get. Like many workshops, have heard mixed to be honest. Some swear by them, others say never again.

  • Like 1

Can't comment on your experience Darren, but I agree from what I've seen.

I know Vu's said before that he paints to a scale...in that if a customer wants a $3000 job he'll do it for that, but it will look like a 3k job. If they're willing to pay 10k for a showroom auto show finish then that's what they'll get. Like many workshops, have heard mixed to be honest. Some swear by them, others say never again.

True

If you want quality try micolour - you pay for what you get.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...