Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts have come off a 1992 R32 GT-R that was in an accident (all body panel damage), engine was still running fine after accident so all parts are good:

  • Sard 660cc Injectors (x6): (SOLD)
  • Nismo Turbos (exhaust housing heat coated): Moved to seperate thread: (SOLD)
    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49008
  • HKS Dump Pipes and Front Pipes (heat coated): (SOLD)
  • Z32 AFM's (done about 5000kms since new): (SOLD)
  • K&N Filters (recently cleaned, x2): (Keeping)
  • Filter Adaptors for Z32 AFM's: (SOLD)
  • Filter Adaptors for Std AFM's: (Keeping)
  • HKS Oil Cooler Kit w/Remote mount: (SOLD)
  • R32 GT-R Gearbox (includes transfer case: (SOLD)
    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49529
  • HKS Twin-plate Clutch and Cro-mo Flywheel: (SOLD)
  • Catch Can (modded for GT-R, 2 inlet, 1 outlet) + hoses: (SOLD)
  • Apex'i PowerFC, Commander and Boost Controller: $1300 (SOLD)
  • Tomei Cat-back Exhaust (nice and quiet): (SOLD)
  • Whiteline Bilstein Shock and Spring package (for R32 GT-R, shocks 1000kms, springs 5000kms): (SOLD)
  • Whiteline Sway Bars (front and rear): (SOLD)
  • Nissan Factory Strut Bar (reco'd): (SOLD)
  • 320km/h Speedo: (SOLD)
  • R32 Skyline Mat Set (5 mats in total, need steam clean): (SOLD)

TURBO DETAILS:

Turbos use a 14411-06U00 Nismo T04B/T25 core with 0.60 A/R Compressor and 0.64 Turbine housings (as per Nismo RS581 Turbos). According to Zoom and HPI magazines they should be able to support up to 590-600ps. At 1.0bar of boost power was much greater than stock and at 1.2bar, performance was great.

POWER FC DETAILS:

The PowerFC unit currently has a good tune in it (by SST in Perth) and is very suited to an aftermarket turbo setup for low-mounts. This unit was tuned to 1.2bar and made 353rwhp before the exhaust became a big restriction. Other mods on the engine (and setup in the PowerFC) were Z32 AFM's, 660cc injectors, engine rebuilt with Forged Pistons and N1 Oil Pump, Standard cams (list above also give an idea).

Shipping no longer included on remaining items (turbo and gearbox). Payment can be made by cash if you're in Perth or by EFT if you're over east (or in Bulgaria).

For more info, you can call me directly on 0412 141 201 (prefer not to chat via SMS) and remember I'm in Perth which is 2hrs behind eastern states to be aware of time you call (up to 8PM WST or 10PM EST). Alternatively email/PM me through SAU.

Cheers

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46277-fs-r32-gt-r-aftermarket-parts-perth/
Share on other sites

The clutch I believe was rebuilt (but can't be 100%) before it went back into the engine about 8,000kms ago. I wouldn't think it needs a rebuild. It will be out tomorrow so I can confirm what condition and amount of meat left on the plates then. Also not sure of HP rating, but would think it would be in the vicinity of 600ps or so. Very nice clutch, not too aggressive, but like all twins you can't really ride it. I have only launched once on the clutch hard, rest has just been daily driving with less than 250rwhp. Lightweight flywheel really gives a nice crisp response on revving, and be aware that twin-plates do rattle when disengaged (love that sound). Daily driving is no biggy, just need to get used to it and use more revs than you would with a standard clutch - and it's not heavy at all. My wife got used to driving it around in about a week, but she was used to driving around a single plate RG clutch with 2200lb pressure plate before that!

Hope that answers your questions.

(PS> Email sent too)

OK, all parts are out of car now and ready for shipping. In regards to the clutch, the mechanic at my workshop checked it out and it's in good condition with about 60-65% meat left on the plates. There's no hotspots on the flywheel and it's definitely a lightweight one.

I can now quote the details of the turbos etc:

Core Plate:

VJ 02580

14411-06U00

466089-1

Exhaust:

.64 696-2 T695

Compressor:

.60 M24

Also revised the price on the Apexi package.

Cheers

Brendan

I will include shipping in the purchase price to major cities in Australia (except exhaust). Country centres will be on a case by case basis - or at least majority of shipping cost covered.

Someone asked for pricing to ship the turbos to the USA (CA), quote on shipping to San Diego, CA:

Shipping: USD$255.00 (approx 5-6 days by air, surface no longer available)

Turbos: USD$1470.00

Total: USD$1725.00

Note that this will not include any import duties or taxes on the US side of the process. Dollar conversions done at 1.00PM West Australian time on 30-JUL-2004 through xe.com.

Cheers

Brendan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...