Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Just checking in for an update on how she's running now? Ie with new fuel pump etc if you have that installed now.

Shrugs......maybe 0w40 haha, I'll double check. I have not paid the bills as car is going back in for fuel pump change.

Just had the pump installed a few days ago. So far starting the car has been without blip or any other issues. The old pump looks fine though.

The stutter is still there when I drive out, no luck with that one still. Reluctant to try the replacing VTC cover and solenoid cleaning since it's a big job. Any other ideas?

Is the stuttering still reduced running edge 0w40? Also does it still only happen in the first couple minutes of warm up? If so just keep using the castrol oil I guess. It used to happen to mine only below 2k rpm, so maybe try to drive just a little over 2k until the engine warms up?

You can force the exhaust valve timing to relearn with Nissan consult III software apparently, and there is also an android app called NDSIII that can do this:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nissandatascan.ndatascaniii&hl=en

I found the ebay bluetooth OBDII adapters do not work with NDSIII, but I found one OBDII adapter from jaycar works well with NDSIII:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Automotive-%26-Mobile-Security/Car-Alarms,-Protection-%26-Accessories/Tracking-Fleet-Monitoring/READER-OBD2-BLUETOOTH-4-0-ENGINE-CODE/p/PP2145

Final option before replacing VCT covers could be to get a tune to delay the time/temp until the VCT starts operating

hope that helps

I've done the exhaust valve timing relearn.

The 0w40 delays the stutter timing - I am guessing that the stutter is happening at a certain temp that the VCT is trying to operate but is not hot enough to. Since the oil takes a bit longer to heat up and by the usual time I am already on the road I don't see it as much. What I did try was instead of warming up for the usual 2-3mins in summer, I did a 4-5mins warm up and the stutter came right away. I could be wrong, but this is just my observation. Scotty is scratching his head wondering why would the oil make a difference to the VCT hahaha.....

I guess the tune option might be the last thing to do now. I'll see. The shop that did my UpRev tune is not being too helpful at the moment. I've asked for the ROM multiple times and I am either ignored or getting a reply with we will send it shortly.

  • Like 1

Even if it is the VCT kicking in, why would that cause a stutter? Stuttering is likely running lean, it might be worth getting a wideband on it during this warm up period to see what is happening.

If that's the case a simple tune would fix it.

I can only recite what I've read elsewhere regarding what people think is this issue. But the community agreed cause is that the VCT sensor isn't overly accurate. At low temperatures especially, the sensor is then setting the cams in the wrong place causing to much overlap at low rpm where overlap is not wanted/needed. And that is where the stutter comes from - low compression due to overlap, not fuel or spark issues.

So the overall solution here *might* be to delay the time the VCT's kick in at (giving the engine a chance to warm up a bit more first) - and I think this is what the oem software update does also.

Even if it is the VCT kicking in, why would that cause a stutter? Stuttering is likely running lean, it might be worth getting a wideband on it during this warm up period to see what is happening.

If that's the case a simple tune would fix it.

Edited by Rufus007

I can only recite what I've read elsewhere regarding what people think is this issue. But the community agreed cause is that the VCT sensor isn't overly accurate. At low temperatures especially, the sensor is then setting the cams in the wrong place causing to much overlap at low rpm where overlap is not wanted/needed. And that is where the stutter comes from - low compression due to overlap, not fuel or spark issues.

So the overall solution here *might* be to delay the time the VCT's kick in at (giving the engine a chance to warm up a bit more first) - and I think this is what the oem software update does also.

The cam sensor is extremely accurate, but the cams have a self learn function which may need to be re-learnt for local conditions. Unfortunately they change their required PWM depending on oil viscosity/temp.

The delay for cam actuation is only to get the oil to operating temp, but it runs off the water temp, and there is a delay before the oil reaches the same temp as the water. I suspect this is where there might be an issue.

I always thought this issue was quite obviously VCT related though, like I initially posted. I also agree about the water temp vs oil temp disparity. I have previously bookmarked something along these lines also: (look at 13th post)

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/64601-my-350z-hates-being-serviced-help/

If not inaccurate VCT control and setting, what do you think is causing the stutter then?

The cam sensor is extremely accurate, but the cams have a self learn function which may need to be re-learnt for local conditions. Unfortunately they change their required PWM depending on oil viscosity/temp.

The delay for cam actuation is only to get the oil to operating temp, but it runs off the water temp, and there is a delay before the oil reaches the same temp as the water. I suspect this is where there might be an issue.

Edited by Rufus007

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning.

How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter baskets in the tops of the injectors? Just remember the wideband isn't accurate until the engine is up to operating temp either, so the engine is running off a base tune from when it was new.

I can only assume this stuttering is on a few cars? If it was VCT angles it would likely be on all of this model, not a couple. I would need to see one to diagnose further, but perhaps running it up on cold start on a Dyno might give you some more information, while logging the factory ecu signal outputs and o2 from the tailpipe with a hot Wo2 sensor.

  • Like 1

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning.

How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter baskets in the tops of the injectors? Just remember the wideband isn't accurate until the engine is up to operating temp either, so the engine is running off a base tune from when it was new.

I can only assume this stuttering is on a few cars? If it was VCT angles it would likely be on all of this model, not a couple. I would need to see one to diagnose further, but perhaps running it up on cold start on a Dyno might give you some more information, while logging the factory ecu signal outputs and o2 from the tailpipe with a hot Wo2 sensor.

So when are you visiting WA? =D you'll have access to accommodation and prob a workshop =P

So if the VCT angle sensor is accurate, do you then think the wrong VCT timing is being caused by the VCT actuators? If so maybe that's what the revised VCT actuator covers might address?

Judging by the lack of response so far this doesn't seem to be a large issue, and as I mentioned mine was sorted just by changing the engine oil to castrol edge.

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning.

How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter baskets in the tops of the injectors? Just remember the wideband isn't accurate until the engine is up to operating temp either, so the engine is running off a base tune from when it was new.

I can only assume this stuttering is on a few cars? If it was VCT angles it would likely be on all of this model, not a couple. I would need to see one to diagnose further, but perhaps running it up on cold start on a Dyno might give you some more information, while logging the factory ecu signal outputs and o2 from the tailpipe with a hot Wo2 sensor.

I have seen a few people with 350z series ii having this issue as they have the HR engine as well. I don't know many of them but the few I know of have mentioned it. Specific to just the 35HR engine.

Edited by colin.ssc

I think there was some early vq37vhr affected also

I have seen a few people with 350z series ii having this issue as they have the HR engine as well. I don't know many of them but the few I know of have mentioned it. Specific to just the 35HR engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...