Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , I found a pin hole water leak at the steel fitting below the back of the inlet manifold . Its right below where the rubber water hose runs upwards and forwards to the back of the throttle body .

Does anyone know if this part is available in Aus and how difficult it is to change it . Looks like a mongrel of a job with possibly the inlet manifold removed .

Probably time to change all those original rubber hoses down there as well .

Thanks in advance cheers Adrian .

Suks2BU.........

When I read it i thought what a bugger of a job that would be!!!

Then I thought probably happen to me now..........what is once seen cannot be unseen! Can't help with the part sorry Adrian, but I'm sure if its not available via Nissan that someone like Pirtek or a good heavy machinery hydraulic shop could make it up. They usually have all sorts of benders flares, and TIG welders for stainless steel pipe and such.

Rockdale Nissan Sydney kindly got me a new one ex Japan .

Now on a mission to get a full set of genuine water hoses for everything under the inlet manifold and change everything at the same time . I figure they are 20 yrs old and living on borrowed time . Hate water leaks in hard to get at places . Also doing the heater hoses and the plastic joiner gadget on the firewall .

Can anyone help me out with part numbers for the oil heat exchanger water hoses plz .

Cheers Adrian .

  • 2 weeks later...

Replace the hose coupling on the firewall as soon as you can. The two made of plastic. When they get old they don't leak, they explode. And because the water disappears so fast the temperature gauge doesn't have time to register the skyrocketing temperature. You look at the gauge and it seems fine because only measuring air temperature. Result ? Kboom !

  • 2 weeks later...

Just off the phone to Rockdale Nissan spares and they have everything , mostly ex Japan , to pick up .

To replace every heater hose inc the plastic junction , every hose and pipe under the inlet manifold inc all block fittings costs about a grand .

Some of these bits are discontinued and if lucky old stock available .

I will be using whatever coolant they recommend because they know their metallurgy best and what green blood works reliably .

I had an old Subaru L Series RX Turbo a while back and that car tried to kill itself with coolant leaks a dozen times . Too many hoses in really awkward places to get at . Water leaks kill engines so cooling systems must be reliable .

A .

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...