Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Am currently driving my mates s1 c34, which is having some headlight dramas, left lo-beam works, and only the right hi-beam works, so collectively i can drive around with a lo and hi beam, but obviously, thats not ideal. He has checked the fuses, relays and globes, all good, i got him to do some probing with a multimeter, but ill start from scratch again once i grab a multimeter off him. (not that i dont trust him, but he hates electrics!)

Has anyone heard of a similar issue?

Does anyone have wiring diagram for the headlights? (ive searched and cant find much)

any suggestions would be great

cheers

soti

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463992-c34-s1-headlight-dramas/
Share on other sites

there is power at the lights, but its all over the place, theres power when there shouldnt be, but no illumination, and there isnt power when there should be, is it a switched ground trigger?

i can get the bulb to illuminate at the weirdest times, then at other times, not at all...

there is no ground wire connected to ground, theres a positive 12v, but no ground, then if u switch to high beam, another wire is activated and if u connect that to the other positive on the bulb, u get a light, 2 positives and no ground, you get a light,

but the other headlight,

theres always 2 active 12v lines with the low beams, then once you switch to high beams, one drops off and you have just the 1 positive, but you dont get low and high beam active when its set to low beam even though theres 2 12v lines active,

its like when theres a defect with the system, it drops a low beam off one, and a high beam off the other so u have 2 working lights.

is there a control module for the s1 headlights, or just the stalk and a few relays? does anyone know if the s2 headlight stalk is the same as the s1 stalk?

From memory the headlights are ground switched. The H4 connector on the harness should have a 12v supply, then either the hi or low beam is earthed to complete the circuit. Have you tested the voltage, and resistance to earth of each pin in each state (ie off, lo, hi)?

The 12v supply is probably the right pin if you look at the female connector front on.

Also I seem to remember seeing some voltage on other pins, but it dropped when a small load was applied. So you may need to test the voltages between the pins of the bulb when it is plugged in. There may be voltage but not enough to get the bulb to incandesce.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...