Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just noticing the Base map tune trim for the Haltech Platinum pro has a pretty serious addition for fuel on the high end of boost and RPM on the # 4,5 and 6 cylinders. I am assuming this is for factory coolant and intake manifold layout...

So I have a few questions:

1) Do most people zero out the fuel trims when moving to a bigger plenum? I'm running a Hypertune V2 and the coolant is all relocated out of the intake manifold collector to a separate manifold that I have made up to go back to the radiator.

2) Does anyone know a procedure for finding out HOW to tune individual injector trims?

3) Does anyone have a base map tune for single turbo with hypertune manifold?

Any ideas or comments are welcome. Thank you.

  • Like 1

Yep, would have to be EGT's though, since widebands can't handle heat of turbo manifold. Not sure I'll ever be convinced to put 6 EGT sensors in the manifold.

if you checked your spark plugs you'll notice 4-5-6 run hotter (look cleaner) naturally being at the back, SR20's run hotter naturally on 3-4.

you can as an option use colder plugs in 4-5-6 to manage heat and zero those trims back, but I'd be leaving it as is unless you have a means of measuring it other than reading the plugs and comparing 1 to 6.

my 2c

Edited by mr skidz

I know the factory head manifold design is such that coolant just doesn't circulate well through the back of the head and those cylinders run a bit hotter than the fronts. If you think about it, the coolant from the pump has to fight friction losses all the way to the back and likely is taking the path of least resistance by exiting up front first. Also while it's traveling to the rear of the head it's constantly absorbing heat from the head and block. If you look at the factory HEATER EXIT port in the Right side of the block, it's exiting on the rear of the engine. It also constantly recirculates to the back of the water pump regardless of the thermostat position (ie-constant circulation hot or cold). I've wondered if this was plumbed this way to constantly have the water pump draw fluid from the back of the block to promote circulation (ie reduced stagnation) there.

You can see this clearly in the intake manifold design. I have attached some annotated drawings showing the original manifold, the block heater / coolant bypass piping made up on my engine, and the Hypertune 1 and 2 manifolds.

It would be nice to introduce colder temp coolant towards the rear of the engine somewhere. I will be putting a coolant temp sensor in the rear of the block so I can log this with the Haltech later. May show us some good information.

Patrick

post-136202-0-47953200-1459968602_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-42811900-1459968616_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-34314400-1459968627_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-99502000-1459968634_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29561500-1459968642_thumb.jpg

I don't think it a good idea to have the coolant running through the inlet manifold like that on a 2000+ dollar race manifold. I would rather modify a greddy copy to suit a singe throttle body. Heaps cheaper. Maybe if it had a revised coolant flow system like a tube similar to the member above and runners that went all the way to the head. But that would prolly cost a small fortune

Edited by gmchaser

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

I personally would install 6x EGTs

Load up the car lightly on the dyno say around 100kPA or a little more at 3k RPM or so and adjust fuel accordingly so the EGTs are about the same across all 6.

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

It's in their base map tunes. I'll screenshot the tables in a min

Haltech Platinum Pro plugin factory basemap for R32 GT-R fuel injector trim tables.

Injectors 1-3 are zero trim

Injectors 4,5 and 6 are all different and increase in fuel added percentage on top end of tables. The highest realistic is around 2% for cylinder 6.

post-136202-0-26618300-1460599864_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-92728000-1460599870_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-36661800-1460599876_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-81261800-1460599881_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

I'm with you. My injector set had a sheet with all the flows. I'm putting the higher ones in the rear.

I'll do a few top end pulls and cut power to check plugs to make sure everything is still good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...