Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Really clean....needs a new steering wheel, as the leather/vinyl has started to come away..

Otherwise - seems true to the kays -and has been with the same owner for 11 yrs and 60000kms..

The plenum still has all its paint..

Couple of rust patches - one under the spare, and one on each side of the front window sill, but appears to be surface only - and I'll get treated straight away.

Only variation from stock - cruise control...!! driven by old blokes..!!

Very beautiful car mate!

Are you planning on keeping her stock or start the process of upgrades??

At this stage - I'll leave it be.

It has a button clutch in it at the moment, which I'm not sure I want to live with - as I have a very steep driveway at home.

I think I'll keep it as an investment - see what the values do as it approaches 25yrs - I don't reckon there would be many stock ones around.

I'll still drive it though - but mostly for coffee runs up the mountains around here.

Its a lot of money for me - so the idea of thrashing it on a track doesn't necessarily appeal either.

At this stage - I'll leave it be.

It has a button clutch in it at the moment, which I'm not sure I want to live with - as I have a very steep driveway at home.

I think I'll keep it as an investment - see what the values do as it approaches 25yrs - I don't reckon there would be many stock ones around.

I'll still drive it though - but mostly for coffee runs up the mountains around here.

Its a lot of money for me - so the idea of thrashing it on a track doesn't necessarily appeal either.

Yes, it's very tempting to start making little mods here and there, but it's a bottomless pit once you start! Ive done and am doing a few to my R33 GTS-T, however, to be honest if I had a GTR I wouldn't touch the motor/turbo etc. They came from the factory w/ more then enough for your average driver and ability to use on public roads.

I would have to upgrade the alloys though to at least 18" and after market springs - just so the wheels fill out the arches!

Enjoy your machine mate :)

Edited by Shing10

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...