Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well yeah, greatly.

what boost are you planning to run?

what cams are you going for?

Devs will be able to give you a much better answer I can cos I don't know.

depends what runs out first, boost/fuel/....stock bottom end

Not sure what cams. But the adjustable cam gears will give a nice lumpy idle if wanted.

I will post a the specs of the parts once I have talked to Jezz later today.

Thank you all for the comments & advice as this is my first RB & I want it done right the first time.

Mate. I'm in Singleton an hour in land from Newcastle. I've just spent $30,000 on my engine giving my 260RS a massive upgrade with Powertune in Sydney.

I have GTR N1 - 7 turbos for sale with dump pipes. As well as lumpy cam shafts. Plus a heap of other bits and pieces off the 260RS.

My car was reliably making 415bhp with stock internals for many years before a big end bearing on number 2 cylinder packed it in.

Hit me up if you're interested to pop up to Singleton for a look.

As for Newcastle tuners. Try Black track at the end of the freeway. I rate their work highly. But they are near impossible to get to answer the phone, so just pop in one day and have a yarn to em.

Edited by Global_Warmer

well yeah, greatly.

what boost are you planning to run?

what cams are you going for?

Devs will be able to give you a much better answer I can cos I don't know.

depends what runs out first, boost/fuel/....stock bottom end

Jezz has ordered Tomei type b poncams and os giken adjustable camgears

I really can't rely on the factory boost gauge so I thought I could get the video output from the Halech into the aux input on my clarion head unit. Or get a multi function display that runs independently. Any thought or recommendations?

Thank you in advance.

Out of curiosity, How did you manage to spend $2500 replacing the headunit?

Clarion motorised 7" screen DVD iPod CD BUILT IN NAVIGATION reverse camera sub & amp

The navigation built into the head unit really bumped the price about $1500 just for the Clarion plus the rest & fitting

I really wanted it to look original when the screen is not in use.

Mate. I'm in Singleton an hour in land from Newcastle. I've just spent $30,000 on my engine giving my 260RS a massive upgrade with Powertune in Sydney.

I have GTR N1 - 7 turbos for sale with dump pipes. As well as lumpy cam shafts. Plus a heap of other bits and pieces off the 260RS.

My car was reliably making 415bhp with stock internals for many years before a big end bearing on number 2 cylinder packed it in.

Hit me up if you're interested to pop up to Singleton for a look.

As for Newcastle tuners. Try Black track at the end of the freeway. I rate their work highly. But they are near impossible to get to answer the phone, so just pop in one day and have a yarn to em.

Sorry been working last few days...

I have GT2560R's 7 ball already not sure of the difference, what other bits do you have?

It's in from this Saturday so I should pick it up next week. I might bring it for a run up the valley for a shake down. & catch up.

Edited by TMLP

Finally it has started, next week the power will be unleashed, I hope!

Haltech will arrive Monday morning Just the fuel pump & injectors to go in so hopefully mid week pick up & test fly....
Thank you to everyone that did reply & help me find the correct way to go, I'm confident the car will be great UNTILL I need more.
Because as I have seen everyone wants more.
  • Like 1

So I obviously gave up on the MINE'S ECU & have started down the Haltech route.

here is a link to the start of the install & pics of the parts I chose from reading this forum & from member suggestions...

So i will start a new topic with this weeks progress & the outcome here... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465091-stagea-260rs-autech-haltech-upgrade/

Jezz will steer you right.

Yes he did, So here are the results, thanks for tha advise I'm very happy with the outcome.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/gallery/image/90305-dyno-graph/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...